Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole, the hearth of the Badami Chalukyan dynasty. / En el corazón de la dinastía Badami Chalukya

We took the train to go to Badami; it would leave at 7:00 a.m. and we were at the station at 6:25, just when the sky began to light up to make way for the day. We waited on platform 1, in the same place where a young cow emptied its intestines after getting up from the ground. There are still people sleeping in a surprising stupor, and slowly the place is filling with travellers who come and go.

 

We travelled on an experienced train; the original bottle holders no longer exist, but have been replaced by other plastic fabrics. Everything looks worn out, but everything is functional. So we enjoyed our tour with tea, samosas and the paratha made by the mother of our chair neighbours.

At Badami, we learned about the process of buying tickets at the train ticket office. First we offered the ticket information we wanted, then we filled out a form with the same information and then the person receiving the form verified the same information again. We wait among other people who seek to make their transactions until a hand scares away all the voices as if they were flies and gives us the QR code to pay. People fill the booth again and, some time later, the hand scares them again to give us the ticket. The only thing that holds the thread in all these dynamics is a silent look.

Badami feels hot; it's 11:00 a.m. and it's already above 30 degrees C. We took some time at noon to eat something and then explored the old city. A cliff of sandstone and granite serves as a container for three main structures that, in the form of a horseshoe, border the main water reservoir and constitute the archeological evidence of the Badami Chalukya dynasty.

The Badami Chalukya dynasty ruled between the 6th and 8th centuries CE and was one of the most prominent in the history of southern India. Its capital was Badami, Pattadakal its ceremonial centre and Aihole its religious centre. This dynasty is known for its remarkable contribution to art and architecture. The rock-carved temples reflect a fusion of Hindu and Buddhist architectural styles. The dynasty played an important role in the spread of Hinduism, strengthening the cult of deities such as Shiva and Vishnu.

The first are the caves carved in the rock, dating between the sixth and seventh centuries, with beautiful and detailed carvings in the stone where different Buddhist, Hindu, and Jain representations stand out. The ascent is accompanied by the beauty of the women with their sarees, the colourful rocky landscape and the spontaneity of the children enjoying the place.

Below, it is possible to appreciate the set of Bhutanatha temples, Hindu temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and built between the seventh and eighth centuries, representing the Dravidian style typical of southern India. Its presence, the colour of the rocks and the contrast of the lake water make this place a special space to calm down and observe. Visitors and locals move around, worshipping, painting, washing clothes, fishing or wiping their feet; there, everything looks great.

The third element is the fortress, a gigantic structure, perfectly camouflaged with the environment and suitable to protect the royal palaces of this dynasty. When walking through it, we passed through the fresh canyons that are formed between the large rocks, which allowed us to enjoy the vegetation that has grown and enter the various levels of the fortress, with its temples and places of worship. From the top, it is possible to observe the network of alleys at the base of the mountain, with houses that pretend to be white, with flat roofs and, in some cases, evidently cultivated.

When we leave the temple, we find the weekly market, a collection of small stalls of fresh vegetables occupying the floor, with a freshness and wonderful colours that have the power to awaken the senses and generate infinite gratitude for those who cultivate the land.

We coincide with the festivities to celebrate the goddess Devi in the temple chosen in her honour. For a month, this goddess, as important in Hinduism as Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu, is worshipped. An extensive fair is organised around the temple with everything necessary to present the offerings and, in general, to attend to any need of daily life. We arrived at 1930h and everything was full and vibrant. We walked around the place from top to bottom, enjoying the images, the doors carved in wood with surprising mastery, the hand-painted brass trunks and the dark coffee blankets built with such delicacy that it is possible to use them as turbans.

 

Aihole presents an extensive set of temples that served as a centre of architectural experiment between the 5th and 8th centuries, with evidence of a great diversity of styles. Although they were originally dedicated to Vishnu, they were later transformed to honour Shiva. The gardens that surround the buildings give a spacious atmosphere in which to observe the details with curiosity and care, and enjoy the full experience. After noon, we had the pleasure of learning the preparation of Bakri, a flatbread made of millet, widely used by the locals as the main source of food. Under an intense heat, and working with two stoves fuelled by wood, the women knead, form, and cook the "tortillas" in a process that, seen from the outside, seems simple, but that, like all human trades, is full of mastery.

 

The temples of Pattadakal are impressive, built between the 7th and 8th centuries CE during the reign of the Rashtrakuta dynasty. In this complex, the Virupaksha Temple, erected in honor of Lord Shiva in 745 CE, stands out with its impressive tower (shikhara) and elaborate stone carvings depicting mythological scenes and everyday life. In front of its entrance, the beautiful and monumental statue of Nandi captures the attention of all visitors. Within the same complex, the Jain temple displays a more linear structure and is distinctive for its simplicity compared to its Dravidian counterparts.

 

At night we had the honour of having dinner with Vinod's family. We went out on his motorcycle, one at a time, to the oldest neighbourhoods of the centre. Vinod and his four brothers, along with their families, share the paternal house and live together with their mother; the father died a few years ago. We were greeted by the two older girls of two of the brothers, with the declamations they had made at school in the previous days. Then, they introduced us to the whole family: the brothers, their wives, their sons and daughters, and the mother. Subsequently, the older brother and his wife invited us to see the altar of the family, probably to pay our respects, and they welcomed us with drinks, blessings of light and gifts, and then took the corresponding photos. Afterwards, we enjoyed some delicious cooked vegetables, accompanied by bakri and rice.

Marce escaped from the main room to visit the women in the kitchen and learn their secrets in preparing bakri. So, she got down to work, and made her first bakri, the teachers were delighted with the result. Meanwhile, Alan in the living room convinced the older girl to organise his hair like hers, with two ponytails. Clearly, this seemed like an impossible activity to perform, but with a little support and a lot of laughter, he started the process. His uncle helped him and soon Alan had two pigtails on his head, while all the infants enjoyed the result with generous laughter.

We left there with a great sense of gratitude, inspired by the generosity of human beings and the inherent gift of being connected.

Alan y Marce

Vijayapura, the traces of the Adil Shani dynasty of the Bijapur Sultanate / Las huellas de la dinastía Adil Shani del Sultanato de Bijapur

Vijayapura is a city in northern Karnataka, which we used as an intermediate point on our route to Badami. We had identified this place in the planning, but, as often happens, the reasons were already forgotten in our consciousness.

After an hour crossing Pune from west to east, the route makes its way through the plains of agricultural dedication, with young crops and open lands preparing to receive spring seeds.

 

Upon arriving in Vijayapura, three elements emerged in our consciousness: the air was cleaner and it was possible to see a blue sky, the language had changed (now we heard Kannada), and the food was different. It was necessary to do a judicious consultation exercise to understand the new breakfast offer; we had tried only two of the suggested dishes: Dosas and Idli.

Vijayapura was founded in the 10th century CE by the kings of the Rashtrakuta dynasty. The city stood out during the rule of the Adil Shahi dynasty in the 16th century, becoming the Sultanate of Bijapur, and an important cultural and architectural centre. Its ancient architecture was a great surprise and an excellent reflection of the fusion of Hindu and Islamic styles.

Gol Gumbaz, the second largest dome in the world, was built in the 17th century by Sultan Mohammed Adil Shah, seventh Sultan of Bijapur, as a mausoleum for his own tomb. Gol Gumbaz is famous for its impressive dome, which measures 37 metres in diameter and was built without a central support. Its design makes the structure act as a natural resonator, accentuating and prolonging the sound. For this, it is very attractive for visitors to climb to the balcony of murmurs and emit their sounds to feel how they echo in the dome. This is a bit deafening for those who are below, simply appreciating the structure.

 

In the houses of the city you can see various structures that were part of the royal palaces of this dynasty. Temples, mosques and mausoleums characterise the city centre. When the sun goes down and the environment cools, the market is activated. Commercial premises occupy the bases and streets around the area, and a crowd with a greater Muslim presence moves frantically. We were able to enjoy a small stand of spices and incense, whose owner gave us each one to try and taught us to appreciate the differences between small and large cumin. Then we were able to learn the process of building the flower necklaces used as an offering both in the presentation of the bride and groom, when the couples are formed, and in the temples to offer to the gods. We were surprised by the number of stores with drums and other instruments, as well as the diversity of percussion instruments available in the area. We ended our tour tasting the delicious local tea that we received as a gift from the owner.

 

 

To the west of the city, Ibrahim Rauza's mausoleum is another splendid jewel. It was built in 1627 by the wife of Sultan Ibrahim Adil Shah II, sixth sultan of Bijapur. In this structure, commonly known as the black Taj Mahal or the southern Taj Mahal, sandstone of warm tones was used, and the intricate mosaic work gives a distinctive character. In addition, the mausoleum is surrounded by beautifully designed gardens, which add an air of serenity to the environment. The warm colours of the sunset illuminate the stone, creating a beautiful image that is enriched with the presence of the green parrots that use its walls.

 

We stayed at the hotel of the tourism commission, where we were lovingly attended by two women who took care of us with unique dedication and warmth.

Alan y Marce

Pune and Lonavala

So far, the journey has been intense; the time to process is limited and the volume of pieces to assemble the mosaic increases dramatically with each moment of exploration. We realise that this dynamic is unsustainable; we need to process, write, draw and give space to the new, as well as to recovery. Despite being aware of this, we arrived in Pune and soon realised that time was limited. In India, it seems that there is a quality in the atmosphere that makes life live accelerated: things are done quickly, you get in and out of vehicles quickly; if you leave a space, someone occupies it; if you stop, you lose. It's something you feel in the queues, crossing the streets, taking a tuk-tuk or sitting in restaurants. It is as if the world had made a sacred pact with efficiency, which is now sickly, and there we are, stuck in the whirlpool and wanting to grab a tree to slow down.

 

We arrived in Pune by taxi and, from this trip, we learned to negotiate our transport services, especially when we use taxis between cities or to visit multiple places. Here are the main keys: 1. Mileage control and explicit discussion about the mileage included each day. 2. Conversation about time and stops. 3. Conversation about other charges included: tolls, driver's accommodation and fuel. 4. Conversation about travel style, preferences, waiting times and safety on the route. With these four points, the probability of paying the agreed amount is increased; otherwise, there will be a good reason to increase the rate.

Pune is a city of 10 million inhabitants, located 560 metres above sea level, which makes its nights cooler. The city has existed since 870 CE. Its streets are more spacious and, in general, it has tall trees that provide freshness. There is a visible reduction in garbage in its streets compared to the other cities visited, which is complemented by many communication campaigns that connect waste management with the sustainability of the city.

 

The city centre is dominated by the walls of the Shaniwar Wada Royal Palace, a construction of the 1740 CE Peshwa Empire which corresponds with the city's political boom. In the alleys full of people and all kinds of shops and services, we find the artisan production of bronze in Tambat Aali. We had a broad conversation with the son of a family dedicated to the production of bronze and brass. The father has dedicated his life to this profession and we had the opportunity to see evidence of his most dazzling works, as well as appreciate some of the oldest pieces, coloured by the inevitable oxidations of the passage of time. Now, with the children, he sustains the practice. The workshop, full of elements, presses, hammers, bronze chips and other gadgets, immersed us in the alchemical atmosphere of the trades.

The food in Pune is wonderful, not only for the diversity of manifestations and options, but also for the quality and variety of places that invite you to enjoy a quieter and more pleasant meal. So we had dinner and talked peacefully every night, without the desire to leave the table or receive the bill to go out. We drank coffee or tea in small places created for that purpose, dedicating time to processing life.

 

Very close to Pune, we visited the Zapurza Museum of Art and Culture, a cultural complex built to present an extensive art collection which honours the culture and traditions of the region. The building integrates with nature and allows a smooth flow from one gallery to another; the presence of artists on the site, as well as demonstrations and temporary exhibitions, make this place a very valuable and enriching experience.

We had the pleasure of visiting the place with Akash, with whom we managed to create an open and curious conversation about life in general, using Google Translate. Akash is a music professional, dedicated to the world of transport, who after driving a rickshaw for five years, now has his own car. With him we made several trips and enjoyed the local delicacies, making our exploration experience much more nutritious. On the second day travelling together, he surprised us with parathas made by his wife for our breakfast. They were delicious; we had breakfast and fed ourselves with the love expressed through them for two days.

 

Around Pune there are archaological remains of several fortresses, so we put our energy into two: Sinhagad and Lohgad. The Sinhagad fortress was built in the 17th century and has been an important place of defence throughout history, until the independence of India. Its sturdy walls and imposing doors are the prelude to wonderful views and the best setting to try kulfi, a homemade milk and sugar ice cream in stainless steel cones, covered by hand and sealed with a piece of bicycle tire rubber. When you ask for it, the lid is removed and a small pressurised bamboo stick is inserted. This man sells 900 ice creams daily that he prepares every night and preserves in a mixture of ice and salt.

We saw the fortress of Lohgad from the Buddhist caves of Bhaja. In the distance, the end of the fortification gives an idea of its size. We arrived early, before the food stalls opened and before the arrival of the monkeys, and we began the ascent of the 500 steps to the top. The fortress is located on the edge of the Sahyadri mountain range; it is built on four levels, connected by four entrance arches reinforced with defensive capabilities. At the back, an elongated fortified shape that resembles the tail of a scorpion complements its structure. At the top, 16 water reservoirs, stables and temples enrich the infrastructure. The view from the top is impressive because of its spaciousness and the smog that prevents you from enjoying it in its entirety.

To the west of the city, we visited Lonavala, a key mountain resort for the inhabitants of Mumbai. On the way to this destination, we explored three temples from different eras. The first of them was the Birla Ganpati Temple, where an impressive sculpture of Lord Ganesh, sculpted in marble, stands. This place, serene and peaceful, invites silence and contemplation.

 

We continued our journey to the Karla and Bhaja caves. The Karla caves, built between the 2nd and 4th centuries CE, are adorned with beautiful sculptures. On the other hand, the Bhaja caves, dating from the second century, house an extensive collection of stupas and 22 caves, highlighting the majesty of their architecture with vaulted ceilings.

During our stay, we stayed in a nature reserve north of the city, where we got lost in silence for two days. For the first time, we found ourselves away from the beeps, screeches, and hubbub of urban life. We were accompanied only by the chants of the temples near sunset and dawn, and the soft murmur of the leaves of the trees, caressed by the wind, which woke us up every morning, sweetly, like a loving murmur.

Alan y Marce

Ellora y Ajanta Caves

 We left early to get to Chhatrapati Shivaji Nagar, formerly known as Aurangabad. We arrived just when the most important festival in the city was being held, and the streets were dedicated to the festival, which included the places we planned to visit.

We went to the caves of Aurangabad and found a sea of beautifully dressed people visiting the place. In historical terms, these Buddhist caves date back to the sixth century CE and have characteristics similar to those we visited in Nashik.

After moving with determination through the bustling group at the box office, we began our climb. Soon the photo requests and the questions of: "What country do you come from?" began. Finally, we arrived at the level of the caves and really what we did was a photo shoot, of which Marce took advantage to record the faces of the place. She tried to get into one of the largest caves, but couldn't advance more than 2 metres because she was always surrounded by people who wanted to take pictures with her. So she decided to leave the place to meet Alan again, who was calling, but Ishe didn't find him because he was also surrounded by young people who surrounded him completely.

We decided to descend and, along the way, we were presented with another set of photographic experiences, protection and love with generosity.

Another surprise was Bibi Ka Maqbara, a mausoleum built in 1669 in honour of the emperor's wife, ordered by his son. It is an impressive building of Mughal architecture, known as the Taj Mahal of Deccan. Built in marble and sandstone, with Islamic and Persian decorative elements, it is dazzling and cosy.

Aurangabad is famous for the Himroo, a form of textile that dates back to the 14th century. It is characterised by the elaboration of high quality fabrics, usually made of a mixture of silk and wool or silk and cotton, with metallic threads that present complex floral and geometric designs. This artisan process involves the use of manual looms and is based on colours such as black, mustard, or pale slate, and intricate patterns, making the pieces highly attractive.

 

The visit to the Ellora caves took us a whole day and we did not manage to visit all the caves. The Ellora Caves are an impressive complex of rock-dug temples and monasteries, dating between the 5th and 13th centuries. This heritage site, recognised by UNESCO, houses structures of three religions: Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism, reflecting the tolerance and coexistence of these traditions in ancient India.

 

The caves extend over approximately 2 kilometres and have a total of 34 caves, the most prominent being Cave 16, known as the Temple of Kailash. This temple, built between the 7th and 8th centuries under the reign of the Rashtrakuta dynasty, is dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and represents the sacred Kailash mountain.

The structure of the temple was carved from a single rock, from top to bottom, rather than being built with stone blocks. With a height of approximately 30 metres, the temple has an elaborate facade adorned with intricate sculptures representing deities, dances and mythological scenes. Among the most impressive representations are the Nataraja (Shiva dancing) and other figures that evoke the rich Hindu mythology.

 

In a beautiful mountainous setting next to the Waghora River, are the Ajanta caves, famous for their exceptional Buddhist art. The Ajanta complex comprises 30 caves, many of which are adorned with intricate sculptures, reliefs and frescos that represent the life of Buddha, stories of jataka (previous lives of Buddha) and various Buddhist representations.

The caves are mainly organised into two groups: the monastic (viharas) and the cult (chaityas). Viharas served as residences for monks, while chaityas are prayer temples that usually contain stupas, structures that house Buddhist relics.

 

The beauty of the place, the aesthetic richness of the caves, the presence of monks who visit, pray and meditate, and the warmth of the people we met, placed this experience in a special place of our consciousness.

Upon arriving at the hotel, we met the guys at the reception playing carom. This is a popular board game originally from India, which is played on a square board made of wood, with a design that includes a group of holes in each corner. With a style similar to billiards, the goal of the game is to slide the chips (discs) into the holes using a "striker" (a larger disc). Players must hit 

the tiles with precision and strategy, trying to hit their own while avoiding the opponent's.

 

The game can be played by two to four players, organised in teams, and generally uses a set of nine tiles of each colour (white and black), plus a queen's tile that grants additional points. The game is won by being the first player or team to fetch all his chips, but the queen must also be considered, who must be ambushed before the end of the game.

An enriching experience in every sense, so much so that learning and discovering that time goes between our hands trying to answer our questions at some level.

Alan & Marce