Mumbai

 We arrived in the city at night and the only thing we could see was the dynamics of traffic from the airport to the hotel, located to the south. It was really impressive: all the busy lanes, the beeps that were already familiar to us and the few spaces that were opened filled as fast as the seeds are consumed in a bird feeder.

The next day our exploration began. The subway station (local train)  that allowed us to reach Colaba was only a block long, surrounded by motorcycles, cars, stalls of everything imaginable and people coming and going. Construction works were also present, creating an intense and chaotic atmosphere.

 

Upon reaching the subway, the initial image was overwhelming: a train was approaching and male half-bodies protruded at each door. Behind them, an organised row of men tried to leave as soon as possible, filling the space available to enter the train. We couldn't find the ticket office to buy the tickets, so we used the self-service machines. After a few attempts, a young man approached and bought the tickets for us, which was a gift, since he did not accept any payment in return. There we were, in front of the platform, waiting for the next train and wondering how we should get on. The scene was repeated, but now we could appreciate the empty space that is generated at each door, 30 seconds after the arrival. So we got on the train, taking a small jump just as it began to move. Inside, a stainless steel structure dominated the view: efficient, spacious and easy to maintain, designed to move thousands of passengers; the overall environment evoked an industrial installation.

We left the station through the underpasses, admiring the size of the transport infrastructure and the challenges inherent in the administration of these systems. When we looked up, an Art Deco style theatre was imposed on the landscape. Without being aware of it, we were in the oval of a set of blocks that is a World Heritage Site, thus representing a unique architectural complex for its combination of Victorian, Indo-Saracen and Art Deco buildings.

The architecture of Mumbai is a fascinating collage of styles that reflects its rich history and cultural diversity. From the buildings of Portuguese influence, the impressive Victorian colonial structures, such as the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj station and the Taj Mahal Palace, through the beauty of the Indo-Sarrazen architecture of the museum, the palaces with decrepit facades throughout the centre of the city, the two-story townhouses that serve as commercial premises and housing, the colourful and organic-growing building of the slums, and the corners and trees that serve as a home for homeless people, to the modernity of the skyscrapers and contemporary buildings that rise on the horizon, making every corner Tell a story.

We started walking in the direction of the court building, and in the oval, several groups practised cricket, which showed the importance of this sport in the identity of the country. Finally, after detours and curiosities, we came across the Jehangir Art Gallery, thus beginning our delight with art in the city. This was one of the delights of our visit.

Mumbai presents a vibrant artistic life, with an extensive collection of museums and art galleries that allowed us to approach the richness of contemporary art, as well as the artistic tradition of the country throughout history. During our visit, the art gallery week was taking place, so they were full of well-curated exhibits that led to exceptional conversations with gallery owners, curators and artists.

In one of our visits, we came into contact with three young people who were doing university studies in Forensic Sciences. They were not originally from Mumbai; curious about our experience, they invited us to visit a famous bookstore in the area. So we went with them. We walked around the area, where they explained the main attractions, gave us instructions on local food, told us what to do and what not to do, and offered us generous guidance on city life through their own experiences. At the end of the afternoon, the two girls left, as a long subway ride was waiting for them to get to their homes, and Piyush continued with us, guiding us through Colaba, the local market and the fishing port of Machhimar Nagar.

The people of Mumbai are a vibrant reflection of the cultural and social diversity that characterises this Indian metropolis. With a population of more than 20 million inhabitants, the city is a meeting area where people of different origins, languages, traditions and lifestyles coexist. The linguistic diversity is also remarkable: Marathi, Hindi, English, and Gujarati are frequently present in the scene. Given the geographical restrictions of space, coexistence has led to integration rather than separation. The inhabitants of Mumbai are friendly and willing to help; in a bustling market or on public transport, it is common to find friendly smiles and words of interest that make one feel welcome. It is easy to engage in conversations and receive recommendations on what to do, eat or visit. In the background, the smells of incense, the shapes of the flowers and the songs in the mosques are always present, which provides an exotic and stimulating atmosphere.

This contrasts with the dynamic and often chaotic life of the city. Their tireless workers come and go with a fast-paced walk through construction sites, cars, street sellers, and noise, which can be intimidating and exhausting.

With this cultural diversity, food is a delight. It is possible to find the traditional dishes of Maharashtra, as well as other regional events of India, all of which are of great quality. In addition, there is a generous collection of coffees and delicious snacks that make the days an incessant conversation.

Finally, we visited the Elephanta caves. To do this, we took the ferry that took us to the island through a 50-minute trip, between the smog and the sea water marked by plastic. This complex of temples and shrines carved in stone dates from the 5th to the 7th century AD. This site, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is famous for its impressive architecture and detailed sculptures that represent Hindu deities, especially the god Shiva. This visit allowed us to understand a little more about the importance of this god in the organisation of the spiritual life of the inhabitants.

Alan & Marce

En español

Llegamos a la ciudad por la noche y lo único que pudimos ver fue la dinámica del tráfico desde el aeropuerto hasta el hotel, ubicado al sur. Fue realmente impresionante: todos los carriles ocupados, los pitidos que ya nos eran conocidos y los pocos espacios que se abrían se llenaban tan rápido como se consumen las semillas en un comedero de pájaros. 

Al día siguiente comenzó nuestra exploración. La estación del metro que nos permitía llegar a Colaba quedaba solo a una cuadra larga, rodeada de motos, coches, puestos de venta de todo lo imaginable y gente yendo y viniendo. Obras en construcción también estaban presentes, creando una atmósfera intensa y caótica. 

Al llegar al metro, la imagen inicial fue abrumadora: un tren se aproximaba y medios cuerpos masculinos sobresalían en cada puerta. Detrás de ellos, una fila de hombres organizados intentaba salir lo más pronto posible, llenando los espacios disponibles dentro del tren. No podíamos encontrar la taquilla para comprar los tiquetes, así que usamos las máquinas de autoservicio. Después de algunos intentos, un joven se acercó y compró los tiquetes para nosotros, lo cual fue un regalo, ya que no aceptó pago alguno a cambio. Allí estábamos, frente a la plataforma, esperando el siguiente tren y preguntándonos cómo debíamos subir. La escena se repitió, pero ahora pudimos apreciar el espacio vacío que se genera en cada puerta, 30 segundos después de la llegada. Así que subimos al tren, dando un pequeño salto justo cuando comenzó a moverse. En su interior, una estructura de acero inoxidable dominaba la vista: eficiente, amplia y fácil de mantener, diseñada para mover miles de pasajeros; el ambiente en general evocaba una instalación industrial.

Salimos de la estación a través de los pasos subterráneos, admirando el tamaño de la infraestructura de transporte y los desafíos inherentes a la administración de estos sistemas. Cuando elevamos la mirada, un teatro de estilo Art Deco se imponía en el paisaje. Sin ser conscientes de ello, nos encontrábamos en el óvalo de un conjunto de manzanas que es Patrimonio de la Humanidad, representando así un complejo arquitectónico singular por su combinación de edificaciones victorianas, indo-sarracenas y Art Deco.

La arquitectura de Mumbai es un fascinante collage de estilos que refleja su rica historia y diversidad cultural. Desde las construcciones de influencia portuguesa, las impresionantes estructuras coloniales victorianas, como la estación Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj y el Taj Mahal Palace, pasando por la belleza de la arquitectura indosarracena del museo, los palacios de fachadas decrépitas por todo el centro de la ciudad, las casas adosadas de dos pisos que sirven de locales comerciales y vivienda, la edificación colorida y de crecimiento orgánico de los slums, y los rincones y árboles que sirven de hogar a las personas sin techo, hasta la modernidad de los rascacielos y edificios contemporáneos que se alzan en el horizonte, haciendo que cada rincón cuenta una historia.

Comenzamos a caminar en dirección al edificio de la corte, y en el óvalo, varios grupos practicaban cricket, lo que muestra la importancia de este deporte en la identidad del país. Finalmente, tras desvíos y curiosidades, nos topamos con la Galería de Arte Jehangir, comenzando así nuestro deleite con el arte en la ciudad. Esta fue una de las delicias de nuestra visita.

Mumbai presenta una vida artística vibrante, con una extensa colección de museos y galerías de arte que nos permitieron aproximarnos a la riqueza del arte contemporáneo, así como a la tradición artística del país a lo largo de la historia. Durante nuestra visita, se llevaba a cabo la semana de galerías de arte, así que estaban llenas de exhibiciones bien curadas que propiciaron conversaciones excepcionales con galeristas, curadores y artistas.

En una de nuestras visitas, entramos en contacto con tres jóvenes que estaban haciendo estudios universitarios en Ciencias Forenses. Ellos no eran originarios de Mumbai; curiosos sobre nuestra experiencia, nos invitaron a visitar una librería famosa de la zona. Así que fuimos con ellos. Caminamos por la zona, donde nos explicaron las principales atracciones, nos dieron instrucciones sobre la comida local, nos indicaron qué hacer y qué no hacer, y nos ofrecieron una generosa orientación sobre la vida de la ciudad a través de sus propias experiencias. Al final de la tarde, las dos chicas partieron, ya que les esperaba un trayecto largo en el metro para llegar a sus casas, y Piyush continuó con nosotros, guiándonos por Colaba, el mercado local y el puerto de pescadores Machhimar Nagar.

La gente de Mumbai es un vibrante reflejo de la diversidad cultural y social que caracteriza a esta metrópoli india. Con una población que supera los 20 millones de habitantes, la ciudad es un área de encuentro donde conviven personas de diferentes orígenes, idiomas, tradiciones y estilos de vida. La diversidad lingüística también es notable: el marathi, el hindi, el inglés y el gujarati están frecuentemente presentes en la escena. Dadas las restricciones geográficas de espacio, la convivencia ha llevado a la integración más que a la separación. Los habitantes de Mumbai son amigables y dispuestos a ayudar; en un mercado bullicioso o en el transporte público, es común encontrar sonrisas amables y palabras de interés que hacen que uno se sienta bienvenido. Es fácil entablar conversaciones y recibir recomendaciones sobre qué hacer, comer o visitar. En el fondo, siempre están presentes los olores de incienso, las formas de las flores y los cantos en las mezquitas, lo que proporciona una atmósfera exótica y estimulante.

Esto contrasta con la vida dinámica y a menudo caótica de la ciudad. Sus trabajadores incansables vienen y van con un caminar acelerado a través de las construcciones, los coches, las ventas callejeras y el ruido, que puede resultar intimidante y agotador.

Con esta diversidad cultural, la comida es un deleite. Es posible encontrar los platos tradicionales de Maharashtra, así como otras manifestaciones regionales de la India, todas con gran calidad. Además, hay una generosa colección de cafés y deliciosos snacks que hacen que los días sean una conversación incesante.

Por último, visitamos las cuevas Elephanta. Para ello, tomamos el ferry que nos llevó a la isla a través de un viaje de 50 minutos, entre el smog y el agua de mar marcada por plástico. Este complejo de templos y santuarios esculpidos en piedra data del siglo V al siglo VII d.C. Este sitio, declarado Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la UNESCO, es famoso por su impresionante arquitectura y sus detalladas esculturas que representan deidades hindúes, especialmente al dios Shiva. Esta visita nos permitió comprender un poco más sobre la importancia de este dios en la organización de la vida espiritual de los pobladores.

Alan y Marce

Back to the region / De vuelta en el territorio

 We left two and a half weeks ago from home to spend the holiday season in Canada with Alan's daughters and to continue on to South Asia. After our exploration in March-April, new questions arose which were crucial in shaping this adventure.Transport, regulations in each country, border conflicts, climate windows, population density, historic-cultural diversity, and the immense wealth of the territory made our planning exercise a significant challenge.

Several choices make this trip very different:

We will not have a vehicle in which to live, which implies several considerations; we will use local transport, trains, rented cars, and planes to move between countries. Apparently, the options are extensive, and we will need to learn the negotiation factors to establish fair agreements and avoid overcharges.

 

The food is delicious, and we enjoy it, but we will not often have the opportunity to cook, which means that our minds and bodies will have to adapt to a new array of options, foods, and combinations with which we are unfamiliar. For now, it is clear that avoiding street food is key.

 

We will have to be much lighter and more mobile, so we will travel with only small backpacks and essential resources.

We organised the route based on climate windows, aiming to be in different areas and countries during times of low rainfall and moderate temperatures. However, according to the climate characteristics of each place, we will need to adapt our plans.

 

We will be in all temperature environments, so our clothing will need to be suitable for a wide range of temperatures, quick-drying, and lightweight.

Given the uncertainty regarding transport, the base case plan is made at a higher level; we have defined sectors and the main issues or points of interest, and we will need to define more details along the route.

Weight is a critical element, so we have minimised the photographic and technological support equipment to the essentials.

We will need to discover how to manage transactions to reduce cash usage, as many commercial establishments and digital wallets do not allow the use of international credit cards, and it seems that it is not possible as non-residents to open a bank account.

 

Our major decisions were made early in the second semester, including packing trials to estimate volume; this alleviated some pressure before departure. However, the workload made the final weeks feel like a real marathon, intensifying when the countdown began two weeks prior to our departure.

With a recharged heart in both Colombia and Canada, we flew from Vancouver to Mumbai, with a connection in Delhi, it was a 15-hour flight; a mixture of sometimes contradictory emotions accompanied our departure, but the aromas of the food, the music, and the scenes of the movies served as a transition effectively and after the long flight arriving was a pleasure.

Alan & Marce 

Through the Hill Fortresses of Rajasthan - part 3, the pink city. / Parte 3, La ciudad rosada.

 We used the train to go from Udaipur to Jaipur, the Pink city. Part of the intention was to expose ourselves to the train and learn how to use it, to take advantage of the 67,000 km of railways available in the country on our trip. This route has an express service that lasts 6 hours and that would allow us to travel easily from one place to another.

We arrived at the station 1 hour earlier, and found a vibrant and accelerated movement, a boy asked us what our destination was and put us in the direction of a long stairway that allowed us to reach the correct platform. Already located in the right place at the required time, we saw different young people arrive one by one with loads of different sizes and in a less punctual way up to just 5 minutes before departure.

Once on the train we received water, a flower and the day’s newspaper, and throughout the journey different components of the food service on board, all well adapted to the characteristics and dynamics of the system. We arrived in Jaipur punctually, and we found a hot, congested city, full of commerce, and fascinating.

The capital of the state of Rajasthan, it is known as the "Pink City" owing to the characteristic colour of its buildings and structures, which were painted in 1853, when the then Prince of Wales, later, King Edward VII, visited the city and most probably to create uniformity with the pink sandstone which characterises its most emblematic and ancient constructions. Jaipur was designed by the Bengali architect Vidhyadhar Bhattacharya, using the grid system, with large avenues, streets, and alleys, as well as uniform lines of stores on both sides of the bazaars, organised in nine rectangular sectors called Chokris. Thus, the facades of the buildings on the avenues are painted pink, while the small streets that connect the various buildings in each Chokri present unique colours and shapes with different levels of care which contrast with the uniform image of the exterior.

 

 

The Hawa Mahal, known as the "Palace of the Winds", was built in 1799 under the mandate of King Sawai Jai Singh II; this impressive building has more than 900 windows and trellis panels, designed to allow constant air circulation and to allow women to appreciate the outside world without being seen. Its Rajput style in pink sandstone is adorned with floral and geometric motifs. Today it is a bazaar which houses commercial premises, like most buildings around the royal palace.

 

 

The Amber Fort is another jewel of the city, located on the outskirts of Jaipur, it is one of the most impressive Rajput architectural fortresses in Rajasthan. It was built in the 16th century by the Maharaja Man Singh I; the fort served as the capital of the Kachwaha kingdom before Jaipur was established. Its design includes elaborate columns, mirror mosaics, and beautiful gardens. Its strategic position on a hill facilitates the defence of the place and offers panoramic views of the surrounding landscape and Lake Maota.

 

 

The preservation of the place was facilitated by the ability of its inhabitants to hide the wealth of their buildings from the invaders, through the superposition of low-value structures, which made the spaces look unimportant.

 

 

The view of the fort is majestic, its deep walls and the ascent route allow you to feel the splendour of the place, which is enriched when the elephants appear on the scene. Until today, elephants are used to facilitate the ascent to the entrance of the fort; the beautiful animals that work only during the morning, are decorated with coloured powder and beautifully adorned mounts, and their leisurely passage occupies the entire path which forces the pedestrian to stop to admire them.

 

 

 

We also took advantage of this escape to explore the operation of the natural parks, so we visited Ranthambore National Park, one of the most visited parks in India for the possibility of seeing tigers. The experience was very different from all our visits to natural parks. Entrance is controlled through viewing shifts and sectors to be visited. Each shift and area has a limited quota of visitors, who are carried on “jeeps”with a maximum of 5 occupants and open ‘buses with up to 25. So the volume of people who are  in the sector at the same time is immense, because 2 ‘buses and 6 “jeeps” are allowed, which is understandable considering the need to maximise the number of people who enjoy the place. When a tiger appears, all the vehicles gather in the same place and the silent struggle to park in a place that pleases its occupants begins.

The sighting was very rich, from the perspective that observed species including antelopes of the area, sloth bear, and a tiger, but the photographic experience was very challenging because of the limits on compose, the time for contemplation, and the competition for the sighting.

We returned to Delhi to prepare our return home and continue enjoying the richness of the city. 

Alan & Marce

Through the Hill Fortresses of Rajasthan - Part 2 / A través de las montañas de Rajastan - Parte 2

 Mt. Abu is the only hill station in Rajasthan and has been a place of great historical, spiritual, and artistic importance, as well as a desirable destination during the British occupation. Alan's father and uncle studied at the St. Lawrence school, located in Mt. Abu, whose facilities now belong to the police.

The ascent to the summit allowed us to appreciate the change in vegetation, the dynamics of the monkeys, who know that humans carry food and are organised and entrenched at the edges of the route, and the aggressiveness of the drivers fighting for every inch of space to pass first.

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Alan's father and his brother lived at this school for 9 of the 12 months of the year and traveled by train to get there. The chances of our visiting the place were limited, since its now being a police training academy, it seemed unlikely to be possible to gain entry, especially considering the country's bureaucracy. However, there we were, embarking on a game of patience and diplomacy. It took us only 1 hour and 30 minutes to reach the director's office, passing through three previous checkpoints, the last of which involved a 1-hour interview covering questions about the reason for our visit, our origin, our relationship with history, and discussions about the practices and customs of Colombia and India. We then moved on to the interview with the director, which took only 45 minutes; the first 5 were formal, and the following focused on the tourist and cultural value, including instructions on how to prepare paratha, the traditional breakfast, which we had already found to work very well. Finally, our access to the main facade of the building and photographs for memory was authorised. The entire process and bureaucracy were fascinating, and sharing the mental space with Alan's father was an intrinsically beautiful exercise.

We explored the temples of the place, a beautiful display of Jainism, carved in marble and hand-painted in vibrant colours. We also visited the nature reserve and its scenic trail, observing the vast landscape and the layer of smog covering the land in all directions.

 

We continued our journey to explore the Jain Temple of Ranakpur, one of the most important and magnificent structures of Jain architecture. This temple, built in the 16th century, is noted for its intricate sculptures and marble carvings, featuring more than a thousand columns, each with a unique design, making it a true testament to the art and devotion of the Jain community.

 

 

Kumbhalgarh Fort, located in the state of Rajasthan, India, is a majestic fortress that rises amidst hills covered in vegetation. Built in the 15th century by King Rana Kumbha, this stronghold is famous for its extensive walls, which stretch approximately 36 kilometres and are considered the second longest in the world, after the Great Wall of China. The fort combines elements of Hindu and military design and is a great example of the rich history of the Rajputs in the area.

 

We headed south to visit Udaipur. Exploring small villages, suddenly a giant statue of Shiva caught our attention. When we say "giant," we refer to a structure 112 metres tall, made of steel and concrete, with a brass surface, bathed in zinc and bronze, called the Statue of Faith, located in Nadhdwara. We arrived expecting to find a ceremonial and worship space but discovered more of a meeting and entertainment centre with options and alternatives for everyone.

In Udaipur, the White City, we arrived in the land of the Mewar Kingdom, one of the oldest and most emblematic kingdoms in the country, with a history dating back to the 6th century, and which remained independent until the establishment of the republic in 1947. Founded by the Sisodia dynasty, Mewar was known for its valour and resilience against invasions, especially during the era of the sultanates and the Mughal Empire, and established a mutual respect agreement during the British occupation.

Udaipur served as the capital of the kingdom, and here one can enjoy the grandeur of its architecture around Lake Pichola. The royal palace is a complex of 11 buildings which combines Rajput and Muslim styles, with intricate details in its peacock mosaics and marble. The streets of Udaipur are adorned with white-painted houses and vibrant bazaars, where local crafts and textiles can be found.

The lake system of Udaipur is an impressive collection of bodies of water that has developed over the centuries, showcasing exceptional hydraulic engineering and a deep respect for nature. This system, which consists of a series of interconnected lakes, allows for the collection of rainwater and, in turn, balances the reserves among them, ensuring the conservation of the aquatic ecosystem and the availability of water for the various villages in the region, a key element for development in a semi-arid environment. Owing to its importance, the lakes and the development of the surrounding villages enhance the richness of the landscape.

 

In Barmer, we had met a textile entrepreneur from this city, so, just as we promised, we visited her. Alka Sharma is a textile designer, who graduated from the Indian Institute of Handicrafts and Design. In 2008, she conceptualised and founded Aavaran Udaipur, with the intention of reviving and sustaining the traditional practice of Dabu, a manual printing technique using wooden blocks and clay, as well as the traditional indigo dyeing techniques from Akola. With her, we were able to go through the entire process, from design to sale, and appreciate the beauty of the techniques at each stage, which was as satisfying as the intimate and close conversation with Alka.

We also visited an artisan village in Shilpgram, northeast of the city. There we delighted in various craft manifestations and the approach to rural life: music, dance, and art, as well as the extensive expression of Warli art, an ancient form of expression that dates back to 10 BCE, with a simple colour palette, often white on terracotta, used to decorate the earthen walls of houses. Its shapes are simple and highly representative and are always connected to nature and rural life, honouring Mother Nature.

Our visit to Udaipur ended with a massage that relieved our fatigue and tension, allowing us to enjoy, deep into the night, a sitar concert at one of the local music stores. It couldn’t have been better.

Alan & Marce