Mosaic on the move

Through the Hill Fortresses of Rajasthan- Part 1 / A través de las fortalezas de montaña en Rajastan Parte 1

Rajasthan is home to one of the largest groups of fortress complexes in its mountains, recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

On this route, which occupied the central part of the trip, we explored Jodhpur, Udaipur, Jaipur, and Jaisalmer.

Jodhpur, known as the Blue City for the distinctive colour of its buildings, is a city dating from the 12th century and developed as part of the Kingdom of Rathore, known as Marwar - The Land of Death, owing to the climatic and topographic characteristics of the area. The narrow streets of the city are a pleasure for the senses; accompanied by the great fort of Mehrangarh, the streets are laid out following the topography of the mountain, and in them, hundreds of commercial establishments house all kinds of product and services. Its market, around the clock tower, is vast, extensive, and rich, and in its centre, fresh products invite one to try them. It was a pleasure to stay in the old city and experience Jodhpur both day and night, recognising the dynamics of its inhabitants and to experience life as it is, with its turbulence and with the tranquillity that you can feel while admiring the deep turquoise blue of the staircase. In Jodhpur, we learned about the Marwar art school, with its delicate representations, textile production, and its presentation show, which is very consistent throughout the area; in the same way, we learned about tea, especially the relaxing mixture of cinnamon, cardamom, and saffron.

Mehrangarh Fort is an immense architectural jewel; what we saw of it from the city was one end only of the fortification. The palace is a well-planned set of buildings, rich in design and the beauty of carved stone, with such detail that it is easy to confuse them with wood carvings.

Its beauty is complemented by the mausoleum built in memory of Maharaja Jaswant Singh II, Jaswant Thada, a beautiful construction carved in marble, with a high level of detail that produces a deep admiration for all the artisans involved in its creation, which results in an ideal space to appreciate the richness and uniqueness of the ecosystem of the rocky desert that it contains. The silence and tranquillity of the place contrast with the traffic horns, the chaos, and the constantly moving energy of the city below.

From Jodhpur, we were able to explore the more rural area and the most important artisan and ancestral practices: ceramics with hand-operated stone wheels, traditional weaving of carpets on horizontal looms with two weavers, and the opium ceremony, which includes a beautiful introduction to turbans and their importance. On the road, we had the opportunity to observe wildlife: deer, antelopes, and peacocks.

Jaisalmer is known as the golden city owing to the construction of its fortress and the city's buildings in sandstone. It was founded in the 12th century under the control of the Bhati Rajput clan and since became an important stop on the camel route to Central Asia. It is a vibrant city where you can feel its history and it is a temptation to wander aimlessly. The richness of the construction and architecture captures attention at every step: the presence of Ganesha at each entrance, marked by the colours of the powders that abound, the beauty of the wood carvings on the doors, and the stone ornamentation of the multiple havelis in the city are simply irresistible.

Jaisalmer allowed us to learn about Jainism, an ancient religion originating in India that is based on the teachings of Mahavira, his 24th Tirthankara (spiritual guide), who lived approximately between the sixth and fifth centuries BC. The Jains believe in the existence of eternal souls and in a dualistic principle that maintains a separation between soul and matter. By practising asceticism and non-violence, they follow a lifestyle that minimises damage to all living beings, which has led Jainism to be one of the most pacifist religions in the world. Jainist architecture, especially its temples, reflects a meticulous attention to detail; these spaces are not only places of worship, but also artistic manifestations of their rich cultural heritage. Its niches, presented with simplicity, allow silence, shadows, light and beauty.

Outside, the streets are vibrant; the families of jewellers and textile curators have maintained their practices for generations, and it is a pleasure to delve into that story of parents and grandparents which seems eternal, as well as to gain access to the beauty of their pieces.

Jaisalmer is located in the Thar desert, and there is a wide range of camel tours to explore it. We took a short ride in the time available to enjoy the sunset. We were alone for ten seconds, and then the rows of camels with other tourists filled the place. The trip was uncomfortable, the natural environment was beautiful, and watching the other camels and people during the sunset turned out to be more interesting than imagined. The camels are beautifully decorated with geometric shapes and coloured tassels in different places on the saddle; camels and their drivers have an intense relationship and seem to operate as a unit; as with other relationships, they even look alike physically.

We took our route south, enjoying delicious sweets made with almond milk and seeds, which were an exquisite find in the city, to experience the unique aspects of the journey, which include, among other things, honking the horn, essential when you want to pass other cars; chai, boiled for a long time, prepared with milk and served in beautiful conical cups of unglazed ceramic; and trucks decorated with tassels that contrast with the improvised and unconventional adaptations inside.

Alan & Marce

Notes on an escape / Notas de un escape

Our month-long trip in 2024 was a lucky opportunity to undertake a recognition of India, or at least a little of India.

In the last days of our trip to Canada, only on one of those nights when the body is exhausted and the tasks of the day have ended, the conversation about our next expedition was opened.

Two potential destinations competed for 2025: the west coast of Africa, from Morocco to Angola, let's say Namibia, since it is almost impossible to resist the beauty of its lands, or South Asia, from Tibet to Sri Lanka. So we decided to start a high-level planning to make a better informed decision. Only two weeks later, with the information collected, it became clear that going to South Asia presented greater challenges owing to the richness of history, the variety of multiple laws and regulations, the climate, the diversity of ecosystems and the various manifestations of cultures that make the region a great attraction.

During the first two months of the year, we explored the information available about each of the countries, and our questions multiplied exponentially. Through one of the coincidences of life, of the kind that one makes happen, we arrived in New Delhi to deepen our understanding.

After 15 hours of flight, we landed at dawn. The security and immigration checks were simple since we had applied for an electronic visa that was easy to obtain once we overcame the barriers of the registration form. Our time in India was uncertain; we had three to five weeks available, one of which would be exclusively for work and the others in a mixture of exploration and remote work. Our only goal was to understand better the dynamics in the region.

During the flight, our questions multiplied and our curiosity intensified: how would it feel to live in a gigantic city we know almost nothing about?

We arrived at dawn, and the pink tones of the first rays of the sun were already illuminating the horizon. After completing the necessary immigration procedures and discovering that the only way to obtain rupees would be in the currency exchange, we headed to the taxi area. Almost immediately, we were accompanied by men who greeted us with a hasty courtesy that contrasted with our calm greeting. However, one of them persisted until the payment booth and, without hesitation, took the ticket that forced us to take his service. It was not being rude, only intense and determined, driven by his need to start his day. We arrived at his car and, as often happens with what is not intended for us, he was completely surrounded by other vehicles in line, so he had to pass on the service to the next available vehicle. A good lesson.

The exploration of Delhi began in a park, where the parrots welcomed us. The presence of trees, vegetation and new species of birds brought a feeling of tranquillity and delight, as if we were coming home.

Old Delhi

After warm encounters with generous people, we continued our exploration, visiting the old historic centre. An avalanche of sensations swept our bodies and our consciousness: colours, people, means of transport, narrow streets, smells, sounds, food, and hundreds of new elements emerged with each step. We tried the most delicious samosas and the most traditional lassi, with almonds and saffron, and thus began a challenging process of testing our beliefs, both stimulating and demanding at the same time.

We explored the great historical and religious monuments, and from one place to another, common social practices allowed us to enjoy, among other things, a unique and always present aesthetic that contrasts with the worn appearance of buildings, the uniqueness of body language, the diversity and synchronicity of religious practices, the richness of street food, the beauty of colours, the ways in which people earn a living, the severe contrasts in all dimensions of existence, the massive preponderance of men in the streets and in establishments, the greatness of textiles, The abundance of skills and ways of production, the magnificence of artistic expressions, and a story that feels infinite and seems to transcend the limits of time.

Without a doubt, this would be a wonderful and challenging route, a set of destinations that would occupy our attention and challenge our understanding of the world as we know it, in which we would spend our energy to its limits. So we continued the journey with curiosity and a tacit acceptance of what was to come.

Alan & Marce