The flavour of the Himalayas - part 2 / el sabor de los Himalayas parte 2

The day started early, with clean air and a clearer view of the mountains; in the distance, snowy peaks and at the top of the mountain, fresh snow accompanied us. The ascent route is long and runs along a stone path that enters and leaves the forest, connecting small properties and cultivation terraces. The forest was a real pleasure, especially for its main character: the rhododendrons.

This tree can reach between 7 and 10 metres in height, and even more, with a trunk of pinkish colours of various intensities according to the maturity of its bark. It contrasts with extensive colonies of mosses and ferns that inhabit their trunks and branches from an early age, mainly on the side of the tree that does not receive sunlight. Its trunks and branches, curved, create beautiful shapes that seem to embrace something, generating a magical and mysterious atmosphere.

Flowers are the great attraction: an inflorescence of fuchsia or red colours rests on a crown of falling leaves, raising the presence of flowers. The trees, which seem to follow the shape of the mountain, show their crowns full of red dots on a green carpet.

In the collections of already blooming trees, the song of the birds emerges between the moving leaves and the tails of feathers that appear as one more leaf. Thus, we come into contact with the beautiful Rufous Sibia, whose songs fill the whole space. A little further up, the path is shared with buffaloes, and in the forest appear beautiful orchids that grow in the moss colonies of the trees.

After six hours of ascent and almost out of breath, we arrived in Ghorepani, a key town on the route, especially for being at the base of one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the mountains. We continued climbing until we reached the hotel; the streets with stone steps play in harmony with the houses and walls of the same material. Just before turning right to walk the last few metres, there was the beautiful mountain waiting for us to see it. That view activated our energy and, as if nothing, we climbed more steps to optimise the view. We spent the afternoon contemplating the play of the mountains, the clouds and the wind, until the sunset rewarded us with its colours on the peaks, closing the day.

We started at 4:25 a.m., in a temperature of 0 degrees C, to ascend to Poon Hill and appreciate South Annapurna and Dhaulagiri right at dawn. We reached the top an hour before dawn, so, in addition to the cold, we enjoyed all the moments of discovery, from the sleepy darkness on the horizon to the full appearance of colour, contrast and depth, marvelling at being in the presence of this beauty.

We returned two hours later, discovering the path and the wonderful view of the valley, to prepare for our departure in the opposite direction. We ascended again eastwards to reach a greater height than that of the morning and enjoy once again the horizon full of snowy peaks and clouds.

We began the descent through the forest on the steps that the roots of the trees create. We crossed paths again with the buffaloes grazing in the forest and with the beautiful ponies used to move loads and people on the mountain. However, the real descent would come later: 433 metres in 2.5 kilometres down the wall of the canyon of a river whose waters were growing until they reached Banthati 2. The deep canyon was full of images in a constant game between the rocks, vegetation and water. In some segments, walkers have built piles of stone that create a beautiful image which is effectively camouflaged in the landscape. Just at the end of the afternoon, we arrived at the set of houses that cover the narrow valley at the base of the mountain. We had just left the backpacks in a cold room and were called to see the monkeys, a colony that inhabits the cliffs of the canyon and that enjoys the last rays of light before letting themselves be hugged at night.

Our night had two flavours: on the one hand, a magnificent conversation with two young women from Hungary and with the woman from the tea house; on the other, a transition to rest in the simplicity of its facilities and the sound of the river and, finally, an icy night with an almost non-existent rest.

We started the day early, with 8 hours of road ahead. The path continues to go down; as soon as we left the town, the bells began to ring and Marce's eyes searched the forest. She could not identify anything, until there were, leaving the forest, a group of donkeys, some of them beautifully decorated, approaching with their loads: stone slabs that are produced in the area and transported to the villages. We shared the trail with them in both directions, and each encounter was a precious source of enjoyment. Again we ascended along a very steep route until we reach the top of the canyon, where the view opened and we travelled along a narrow path surrounding the mountain until we reach the Trekking Sanctuary Lodge, where the blue sky and the view of Annapurna South and the valley took our breath away and captured all our attention with a tea in hand, while the beautiful vultures of the Himalayas appeared on stage.

When continuing down the mountain, we saw a colony of Himalayan vultures, in the breeding season, and observing them gave us the impetus to continue the ascent to Tadapani. This is one of the key places on the Poon Hill circuit, full of tea houses, and allows a beautiful view of the mountain, as well as Fish Tail, another summit of beautiful shape and very difficult to photograph. Given the beauty of the place, we decided to stay and enjoy a quiet afternoon in the presence of all the elements. We enjoyed the pleasure of a hot shower, sat in the sun and ate in a simple but delicious way. With the battery recharged, Marce's curiosity was activated and she managed to coordinate with the owners of the place to teach her how to make momos. Vishnu (the mother), Subash (the son), and Deepak (the chef) guided her through the process, letting her cook from beginning to end, and an hour later we were all eating momos, which were delicious.

Unlike the other days, today's descent began slowly. We crossed the rhododendron forests to discover on their western side beautiful collections of mosses that manage to stay moist and away from the sun during the day. As it happened yesterday, the bells inside the forest began to ring, creating that feeling of warmth and mystery, and Marce's eyes began to look around, hoping to find some herd; indeed, there were the buffaloes grazing in a small section of the forest, accompanied by the chiming of their little bells.

We continued the descent until we reached the vertical section, near a small stream that descends quickly down the mountain. At the base, the route becomes smoother, with small groups of steps and areas of land that allowed us to appreciate the softness and enjoy every step with its view. In the lower lands, the singing of the birds increases, the temperature rises, and the path becomes gentle, which is delicious for our last day of walking.

We arrived at Ghandruk with enough time to explore the place. It is a village of traditional Gurung houses, the predominant ethnic group of the area, delicately cared for, with narrow alleys that descend the mountain. The houses have small gardens to grow vegetables and front patios to enjoy the landscape and the views. We managed to visit traditional tapestry weavers, two charming women who allowed us to know their place, their materials and their products. Purnima Gurung, the daughter, is an expert weaver of the tapestries of the region, and her mother, Nanda Kumari Gurung, in addition to supporting the preparation of the materials, weaves in cotton the precise textile used mainly by men as a traditional vest.

The next day, the clear sky surprised us with the white mountains as a backdrop. In addition, some visitors were enjoying the traditional costumes, and we were able to photograph them without any problem. We discovered that the road was closed and that the car could not reach the hot springs, so we changed our plans and walked to the next town to make contact with the transport. On the way to Pokhara, we took advantage of the time to visit the World Peace Pagoda, a quiet place and a structure that invites awareness and contemplation. In contrast, the temple of Sarangkot, in all its splendour, housed a festival full of colour, music and devotees visiting all the monuments of this complex; it was a feast for the senses. Additionally, we were able to enjoy traditional performing arts, with an epic representation of Shiva and Vishnu defeating the demons. We ended the day with a visit to the giant statue of Shiva and its infinite collection of Lingas.

After 9 days we returned to Kathmandu with a full heart, an enriched conscience and gratitude on the surface of the skin.

Alan y Marce

En español

El día comenzó temprano, con aire limpio y una vista más clara de las montañas; a lo lejos, picos nevados y en la cima de la montaña, nieve fresca nos acompañaban. La ruta de ascenso es larga y transcurre por un camino de piedra que entra y sale del bosque, conectando pequeñas propiedades y terrazas de cultivo. El bosque fue un verdadero placer, especialmente por su personaje principal: los rhododendron.

Este árbol puede alcanzar entre 7 y 10 metros de altura, e incluso más, con un tronco de colores rosáceos de diversas intensidades según la madurez de su corteza. Contrasta con extensas colonias de musgos y helechos que habitan en sus troncos y ramas desde una temprana edad, principalmente en el lado del árbol que no recibe la luz del sol. Sus troncos y ramas, curvos, crean formas preciosas que parecen abrazar algo, generando una atmósfera mágica y misteriosa.

Las flores son la gran atracción: una inflorescencia de colores fucsias o rojos se posa sobre una corona de hojas que caen, elevando la presencia de las flores. Los árboles, que parecen seguir la forma de la montaña, dejan ver sus copas llenas de puntos rojos sobre una alfombra verde.

En las colecciones de árboles ya florecidos, el canto de los pájaros emerge entre las hojas que se mueven y las colas de plumas que aparecen como una hoja más. Así, entramos en contacto con el hermoso Rufous Sibia, cuyos cantos llenan todo el espacio. Un poco más arriba, el camino se comparte con búfalos, y en el bosque aparecen hermosas orquídeas que crecen en las colonias de musgo de los árboles.

Después de seis horas de ascenso y ya casi sin aliento, llegamos a Gorepani, un poblado clave en la ruta, especialmente por estar a la base de uno de los miradores más hermosos de las montañas. Continuamos subiendo hasta llegar al hotel; las callecitas con escalones de piedra juegan en armonía con las casas y los muros del mismo material. Justo antes de girar a la derecha para caminar los últimos metros, allí estaba la bella montaña esperándonos para dejarse ver. Esa vista activó nuestra energía y, como si nada, subimos más escalones para optimizar la vista. Pasamos la tarde contemplando el juego de las montañas, las nubes y el viento, hasta que el atardecer nos premió con sus colores sobre las cimas, cerrando el día.

Salimos a la ruta a las 4:25 a.m., con 0 grados, para ascender a Poon Hill y apreciar Annapurna Sur y Dhaulagiri justo al amanecer. Llegamos a la cima una hora antes del amanecer, así que, además del frío, disfrutamos de todos los momentos de descubrimiento, desde la soñolienta oscuridad en el horizonte hasta la aparición plena del color, el contraste y la profundidad, maravillándonos por estar en presencia de esta belleza.

Regresamos dos horas después, descubriendo el camino y la maravillosa vista del valle, para preparar nuestra salida en dirección contraria. Ascendimos de nuevo por la montaña del este para alcanzar una altura superior a la de la mañana y disfrutar una vez más del horizonte lleno de picos nevados y nubes.

Iniciamos el descenso por el bosque a través de los escalones que las raíces de los árboles crean. Nos cruzamos de nuevo con los búfalos que pastan en el bosque y con los hermosos ponis, utilizados para mover cargas y personas en la montaña. Sin embargo, el verdadero descenso vendría después: 433 metros en 2.5 kilómetros por la pared del cañón de un río cuyas aguas fueron creciendo hasta llegar a Banthanti 2. El cañón profundo estuvo lleno de imágenes en un juego constante entre las rocas, la vegetación y el agua. En algunos segmentos, los caminantes han construido pilas de piedra que crean una imagen bella que se mimetiza efectivamente en el paisaje. Justo al final de la tarde, llegamos al conjunto de casas que cubren el estrecho valle a la base de la montaña. Solo dejamos los morrales en una habitación fría y nos llamaron a ver los monos, una colonia que habita los riscos del cañón y que disfruta de los últimos rayos de luz antes de dejarse abrazar por la noche.

Nuestra noche tuvo dos sabores: de un lado, una magnífica conversación con dos mujeres jóvenes de Hungría y con la mujer de la casa del té; del otro, una transición al descanso en la simpleza de sus instalaciones y el sonido del río y, finalmente, una noche helada con un descanso casi inexistente.

Comenzamos el día temprano, con 8 horas de camino por delante. El camino sigue en descenso; apenas dejando el poblado, las campanillas comenzaron a sonar y mis ojos buscaron en el bosque. No podría identificar nada, hasta que allí estaban, saliendo del bosque, un grupo de burros, algunos de ellos bellamente decorados, que se aproximaban con sus cargas: lajas de piedra que se producen en la zona y se transportan a los poblados. Compartimos el sendero con ellos en ambas direcciones, y cada encuentro fue una fuente preciada de disfrute. Nuevamente ascendimos por una ruta muy inclinada hasta llegar a la cima del cañón, donde se abre la vista y se transita por un sendero estrecho rodeando la montaña, hasta llegar al Trekking Sanctuary Lodge, donde el cielo azul y la vista de Annapurna Sur y del valle nos quitaron el aliento y capturaron toda nuestra atención con un té en la mano, mientras los hermosos buitres del Himalaya aparecían en escena.

Al bajar la montaña, una colonia de buitres del Himalaya se encontraba en época de cría, y observarlos nos dio el impulso para continuar el ascenso hasta Tadapani. Este es uno de los lugares clave en el circuito de Poon Hill, lleno de casas de té, y permite una vista preciosa de la montaña, así como de Fish Tail, otra cumbre de forma hermosa y muy difícil de fotografiar. Dada la belleza del lugar, decidimos quedarnos y disfrutar de una tarde tranquila en presencia de todos los elementos. Disfrutamos el placer de una ducha caliente, nos sentamos al sol y comimos de manera simple pero deliciosa. Con la batería recargada, mi curiosidad se activó y logré coordinar con los dueños del lugar para que me enseñaran a hacer momos. Vishnu (la madre), Subash (el hijo) y Deepak(el chef) me guiaron en el proceso, dejándome cocinar de principio a fin, y una hora después todos estábamos comiendo momos, que quedaron deliciosos.

A diferencia de los otros días, el descenso hoy comenzó lentamente. Atravesamos los bosques de rhododendron para descubrir en su lado occidental hermosas colecciones de musgos que logran permanecer húmedos y lejos del sol durante el día. Tal como ocurrió ayer, las campanitas dentro del bosque empezaron a sonar, creando esa sensación de calidez y misterio, y mis ojos comenzaron a buscar a su alrededor, esperando encontrar algún rebaño; efectivamente, allí estaban los búfalos pastando en una pequeña sección del bosque, acompañados del canto de sus pequeñas campanas.

Continuamos el descenso hasta llegar a la vertical, cerca de un pequeño riachuelo que desciende rápidamente por la montaña. En la base, la ruta se torna más suave, con pequeños grupos de escalones y zonas de tierra que nos permiten apreciar la suavidad y disfrutar cada paso con su vista. En las tierras más bajas, el canto de los pájaros se incrementa, la temperatura sube y el camino se vuelve amable, lo cual resulta delicioso para nuestro último día de caminata.

Llegamos a Ghandruk con tiempo suficiente para explorar el lugar. Se trata de un poblado de casas tradicionales Gurung, la etnia predominante de la zona, delicadamente cuidadas, con callejones estrechos que descienden por la montaña. Las casas cuentan con pequeños jardines para cultivar vegetales y patios frontales para disfrutar del paisaje y las vistas. Conseguimos visitar a tejedoras tradicionales de tapices, dos mujeres encantadoras que nos permitieron conocer su lugar, sus materiales y sus productos. Purnima Gurung, la hija, es una experta tejedora de los tapices de la región, y su madre, Nanda Kumari Gurung, además de apoyar la preparación de los materiales, teje en algodón el preciso textil usado principalmente por los hombres como chaleco tradicional.

Al día siguiente, el cielo despejado nos sorprendió con las montañas blancas como telón de fondo. Además, algunos visitantes estaban disfrutando de los trajes tradicionales, y pudimos fotografiarlos sin problema. Descubrimos que la carretera estaba cerrada y que el carro no podría llegar a las aguas termales, así que cambiamos nuestros planes y caminamos hasta el siguiente pueblo para hacer contacto con el transporte. En ruta hacia Pokhara, aprovechamos el tiempo para visitar la Pagoda de La Paz Mundial, un lugar silencioso y una estructura que invita a la conciencia y la contemplación. En contraste, el templo de Sarangkot, en todo su esplendor, albergaba un festival lleno de color, música y devotos visitando todos los monumentos de este complejo; fue toda una fiesta para los sentidos. Adicionalmente, pudimos disfrutar de artes escénicas tradicionales, con una épica representación de Shiva y Vishnu venciendo a los demonios. Terminamos el día con una visita a la estatua gigante de Shiva y su colección infinita de Lingas. 

Luego de 9 días regresamos a Katmandú con el corazón lleno, la conciencia enriquecida y la gratitud a flor de piel.

The flavour of the Himalayas. Part 1 / El sabor de los Himalayas - Parte 1

 We leave the Kathmandu through a route under construction that ascends the mountain following a curved route to the top. When crossing the mountain, the Trishuli River valley opens up, which collects water from small almost invisible streams at this time of year. We descend slowly between curves and works, while the mountains change the forest for cultivable terraces that, given the current drought, are simply dry land.

Along the river, the vegetable crops are leafy, filling the landscape with bright green, and in the local markets, vegetables and cereals create a party of colours and irresistible aromas. In addition, on the route we came across several groups of the Magar community, one of the largest indigenous groups in the country, who met to celebrate their heritage. Their costumes, music and dances, as they walked towards the meeting point, were quite a spectacle.

We arrived at the base of an impressive complex with a cable service (whose existence is difficult to understand) that ascends to the Hindu temple of Manakamana. We were surprised by the existence of this cable car, its size and the number of passengers. When it was our turn, we boarded the carriage and the ascent began; we could quickly observe the cultivable terraces that extend from the base to the top of the mountain, making their way through the remains of the forest and wooden plantations. At the arrival station, a corridor of stalls selling offerings, food and other accessories leads to the highest level, where the temple is located. The devotees prepare their offerings so that their requests are fulfilled by the goddess Bhagwati, a reincarnation of Parvati. 

At the top, a row of visitors surrounds the temple, built in 1678, seeking to be in the presence of its goddess and receive her blessings. Unlike other temples, the offerings are left in the hands of the devotees. On one side, the coconuts are cracked open to be consumed; the candles are placed in the fire house along with everything that serves as fuel, including the beautiful plates made with leaves. The other items, such as baskets, malas and some flower necklaces, return to the hands of their owners, not without first being transferred to a plastic bag to return the offering basket, which has only been rented. Around the temple, the priests apply Tika, a thick mixture of coloured powders, threads and some binder. Families look for the best angle and pose for photographs, while the monkeys jump from one place to another, taking advantage of the morsels, seeds, and sweets left by the pilgrims.

Recalled in conversations with Alan for some time, the Gurkha commandos have been present with their great ability and their endless history of victories. At the end of 1700, the Gurkha Kingdom began the process of unifying the country's kingdoms, thus creating the Kingdom of Nepal, which remained in force until 2008. With this context, we decided to visit Gorkha. This municipality has the Gurkha Museum, a beautiful building that follows the architectural guidelines already seen in Patan and Kathmandu. It is beautifully preserved and has woodwork that deserves a detailed observation. The collection of rulers of the Gurkha kingdom allowed us to continue enriching our understanding of this historical mosaic.

Afterwards, we visited the royal palace, a fortress built with stone slabs and several levels of defence which make it almost impenetrable. The wooden balcony at the top of the building protrudes from the facade, creating a unique access to the view of the lower levels and a special quality in the architectural set. Its temple dedicated to Shiva stands out, which keeps the fire lit all year round and guarantees the ever-present offering of seeds and fruits for the monkeys of the place.

Bandipur is a small charming town. Its streets are mainly pedestrian, covered with stone and dotted with small shops and accommodations. On clear days, it is possible to see Annapurna and the surrounding mountains from the viewpoint. However, currently the air quality is so bad that you can see only a cloud of smog on the horizon.

Pokhara is the tourist centre of the area. Its streets are under construction, which generates considerable chaos in traffic, translated into stagnation and the annoyance of traffic police, who, as often happens, fail to control the traffic junction. The lakeside area is intensely dedicated to tourism, with buildings that are one hotel after another, interrupted only by small cafes, shops and restaurants.

Lake Phewa is a fundamental element of the landscape, people and life of Pokhara. We walked calmly along the path that borders the lake, listening to the singing of the starlings and crows that were preparing to rest. Both locals and visitors enjoyed themselves equally, and it was a perfect opportunity to recognise the traditional Magal and Newar clothing. At 6:00 pm the prayer begins, a Hindu ceremony in which three priests interact between music, fire, water, and songs. The congregation is a mixture of devotees and curious visitors like us, and the ceremony is preceded by a statement of all donations received on the day by those who wish to be fulfilled. At the end of the ceremony, the devotees line up to receive the blessings of the priests, while we leave the place.

We arrived at one of the entry points of the Annapurna conservation area. Up to this place, the road is paved and narrow, with beautiful curves, although still influenced by the smoke of the city. From there, the route becomes a slow circulation track, shared by walkers and jeeps that move through cliffs and deep canyons until they reach Ulleri.

We left the jeep and began our hike to Banthanti, and depending on the circumstances, we were to continue for three more hours. We ascended a route of steps built in stone which connects the communities. It is an impressive work that made us feel deep gratitude for the people who, for years and possibly centuries, have been walking these paths and creating more favourable conditions for all. The pauses during the ascent are minimal; it is one step after another, which makes it easier to breathe as we move forward. Every now and then, a high stone armchair has been built for travellers to unload the weight and rest.

When we reached the first and supported our body on the rest wall, the first raindrops began to fall, so we put on the rain jackets and continued on the road, enjoying the contrast between our hot bodies and the cold of the wind and the gentle rain. Just when we arrived at the place for lunch and for a decision, the downpour intensified. We had lunch, waited an hour to evaluate the conditions and decided to stay.

It was the best decision: the rain became stronger, and the winds moved the roofs; it would have been unpleasant to walk three more hours in those conditions, totally soaked. It was a perfect downpour in this tea house, as the hostels along the road are called in this territory. There was no other walker, so the whole family was around the fire in the main room. The fire is built in a metal drum connected to a duct that carries the smoke to the outside. Around this structure, a wooden frame is used to hang wet clothes and dry them on days like this.

The family is made up of three generations: the daughter is the administrator of the place, attends to the customers, and shares the kitchen work; the mother attends the place and the rooms with the grandmother and supports the kitchen; the father is the main cook and the grandfather takes care of the fire and the family tea during the day.

After having lunch and reading a little, Dinesh, our guide, invited us to play cards, introducing us to two Nepali games: Dhumbal and Yak. They were fun and appropriate for the moment.

A tree tomato appeared through the window and moved vigourously with the wind, which generated a conversation between the women around the room. This is how we arrive at the recipe for the spicy sauce that is used with the food. Thirty minutes later, I was with the father and daughter preparing the night's sauce. It was a delicious experience; in addition, they explained to me the secrets of **dal**, chicken curry and the Tibetan bread that is used in the region for breakfast. While this was happening, Alan discovered the rum from Nepal and, for academic purposes, began its tasting, which allowed us to try accompaniments that we had not tried, thus completing an unexpected and wonderful evening.

Alan y Marce

Kathmandu: first flavours of Nepal / Kathmandu: los primeros sabores de nepal

 We took the flight that would take us to Kathmandu, and after the tension of the previous 62 hours, sitting in the aircraft's seats was a relief. The first surprising image was Kathmandu from the air. While the awareness of traffic and congestion is undeniable in this city, in Marce's mind Nepal was a green and white place. Therefore, seeing from the plane this jungle of earth-coloured buildings that dominated the whole view was a great surprise. 

After completing the immigration procedures and passing the inbound security inspection at customs, we were outside, beginning to understand this country. With just a few minutes of interaction, we already noticed the differences: friendly people, welcome greetings, and a general atmosphere of tranquillity which invites you to take things more calmly. We carried out the initial procedures, including, of course, having a coffee.

We arrived at the hostel just at the end of the day. A relatively spacious room, with a balcony, two chairs and a small table, welcomed us. We stayed in Thamel, the vibrant tourist heart of Kathmandu, known for its narrow streets full of colourful shops of handicrafts, clothing, and trekking items, as well as tour agencies. Its bohemian atmosphere offers a unique blend of Nepalese culture and world cafes that is very tempting for us.

On our first night, we passed by a shop of handmade patches by Rah. Following his invitation, we went in to explore. This man has been embroidering patches for 35 years and showed us how he did them; we could appreciate how his mind draws the design while his hands slide the fabric to the repetitive rhythm of the needle. We left with some patches in hand and the promise of returning to pick up one of Marce's name, which he would embroider in front of me, demonstrating his mastery.

The Kathmandu valley has been inhabited since ancient times, but it was from the third century that the valley assumed a leading role with the kingdoms Licchavi, Malla and finally the Kingdom of Gorkha. During the Licchavi period (approximately from the 3rd to the 7th century CE), the valley stood out for its flourishing trade, being a key point on the trans-Himalaya route, thanks to religious harmony, its form of government, and its architecture.

The Kingdom of Malla (from the 12th to the 18th century) was an even more prosperous period, characterised by the fragmentation of the valley into several kingdoms, each ruled by one of the King's sons. During this time, there were notable advances in the arts and architecture, with the construction of important religious and administrative facilities. The disputes between the different Malla kingdoms also fostered an atmosphere of competition that boosted artistic development.

In the 18th century, the Kingdom of Gorkha, under the leadership of King Prithvi Narayan Shah, unified the Kathmandu Valley, creating the Kingdom of Nepal, which was key in the defence of the territory and lasted until 2008, when the monarchy was abolished and the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal was established. 

Kathmandu has multiple representations of this cultural wealth, among which Kathmandu Darbar Square and Patan Darbar Square stand out. Both reflect the richness of Newar architecture, which flourished during the Malla empire. This architecture is characterised by the distinctive use of materials such as carved wood and brick. The buildings, often adorned with intricate carvings representing deities and mythological scenes, have pagoda-shaped roofs with multiple levels, which brings both aesthetic beauty and functionality. In addition, the inclusion of courtyards and open spaces encourages social and ritual interaction in the community.

The temples and mandapas, which serve as meeting places, reflect the integration of Hinduism and Buddhism, while the frescos and decorative reliefs narrate the rich history and traditions of the Newar culture.

 

Complementing the scene are the Nepalese stupas, which clearly represent the Buddhist presence in the country. To the west is the Stupa of Swayambhunath, also known as the Temple of the Monkeys, which dates back to the 5th century CE and is located on a hill with panoramic views of the city. It is famous for its large golden dome and its Buddha eyes that look in the four directions, symbolising vigilance and wisdom. It is also known for the Hindu temple that shares the same territory and for the monkeys, specifically the Rhesus macaque, which are considered sacred. These monkeys live in the place, turning the sunset into a whole party with their intense movements, games, and jumps. In addition, their ability to take advantage of the food offered by humans has led to the tea being served with a broomstick to scare away the monkeys.

To the east of the city is the Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest in the world and an important Buddhist pilgrimage centre. Recognised for its immense mandala and unique architectural style, Boudhanath is a site of devotion and cultural activity in which, every day, devotees make circuits (kora) at its base, to demonstrate their devotion, practise active meditation, gain merits for their spiritual evolution, and strengthen their community ties.

In the interweaving of religions and traditions, we find the figure of the Kumari, a venerated girl considered a living goddess in Nepal, specifically in the Kathmandu valley. The Kumari represents the incarnation of the Hindu goddess Taleju. This tradition dates back to the Malla dynasty in the 12th century CE, when the king, inspired by a dream, established this figure. The selection of the Kumari is a rigorous process which involves identifying a girl of Newar origin who meets 32 auspicious characteristics. Her life as Kumari involves residing in the Kumari Ghar in Kathmandu, where she is worshipped and protected. During her term, she participates in important religious and ceremonial festivals, where she receives the reverence of the devotees.

The Kumari will maintain her role until she reaches puberty, at which time it is considered that she loses the powers of the goddess with the arrival of menstruation, thus ending her cycle as a living goddess. We were surprised that this tradition is still in force; initially we thought people were referring to stories from the past, but this is not the case. Today, there are three main Kumari who come from different families and are under the care of a special group, in addition to eleven Kumari who participate in ceremonial activities and festivities, living with their original families.

Another prominent element in the panorama of the valley is Thangka painting, a traditional form of Tibetan and Nepalese art which is characterised by its meticulous technique and deep religious symbolism. These paintings, usually made on cotton or silk canvas, are used as teaching tools in Buddhist traditions, providing detailed images of deities, mandalas, and accounts of sacred texts. They are made with paints obtained from minerals, and natural dyes, and are often embellished with gold leaf, which gives them a special glitter. Around the city, it is possible to get lost among mandalas and attention-captivating glances. We also had the opportunity to enjoy some contemporary art exhibitions and explore new expressions and forms that weave the present in Nepal.

Our days in Kathmandu were endless walks through streets and alleys that go up and down, and that reveal to us in the blink of an eye small surprises, unexpected events, and unplanned conversations, nourishing our steps and leaving a satisfying flavour of the experience.

Alan y Marce