Pune and Lonavala

So far, the journey has been intense; the time to process is limited and the volume of pieces to assemble the mosaic increases dramatically with each moment of exploration. We realise that this dynamic is unsustainable; we need to process, write, draw and give space to the new, as well as to recovery. Despite being aware of this, we arrived in Pune and soon realised that time was limited. In India, it seems that there is a quality in the atmosphere that makes life live accelerated: things are done quickly, you get in and out of vehicles quickly; if you leave a space, someone occupies it; if you stop, you lose. It's something you feel in the queues, crossing the streets, taking a tuk-tuk or sitting in restaurants. It is as if the world had made a sacred pact with efficiency, which is now sickly, and there we are, stuck in the whirlpool and wanting to grab a tree to slow down.

 

We arrived in Pune by taxi and, from this trip, we learned to negotiate our transport services, especially when we use taxis between cities or to visit multiple places. Here are the main keys: 1. Mileage control and explicit discussion about the mileage included each day. 2. Conversation about time and stops. 3. Conversation about other charges included: tolls, driver's accommodation and fuel. 4. Conversation about travel style, preferences, waiting times and safety on the route. With these four points, the probability of paying the agreed amount is increased; otherwise, there will be a good reason to increase the rate.

Pune is a city of 10 million inhabitants, located 560 metres above sea level, which makes its nights cooler. The city has existed since 870 CE. Its streets are more spacious and, in general, it has tall trees that provide freshness. There is a visible reduction in garbage in its streets compared to the other cities visited, which is complemented by many communication campaigns that connect waste management with the sustainability of the city.

 

The city centre is dominated by the walls of the Shaniwar Wada Royal Palace, a construction of the 1740 CE Peshwa Empire which corresponds with the city's political boom. In the alleys full of people and all kinds of shops and services, we find the artisan production of bronze in Tambat Aali. We had a broad conversation with the son of a family dedicated to the production of bronze and brass. The father has dedicated his life to this profession and we had the opportunity to see evidence of his most dazzling works, as well as appreciate some of the oldest pieces, coloured by the inevitable oxidations of the passage of time. Now, with the children, he sustains the practice. The workshop, full of elements, presses, hammers, bronze chips and other gadgets, immersed us in the alchemical atmosphere of the trades.

The food in Pune is wonderful, not only for the diversity of manifestations and options, but also for the quality and variety of places that invite you to enjoy a quieter and more pleasant meal. So we had dinner and talked peacefully every night, without the desire to leave the table or receive the bill to go out. We drank coffee or tea in small places created for that purpose, dedicating time to processing life.

 

Very close to Pune, we visited the Zapurza Museum of Art and Culture, a cultural complex built to present an extensive art collection which honours the culture and traditions of the region. The building integrates with nature and allows a smooth flow from one gallery to another; the presence of artists on the site, as well as demonstrations and temporary exhibitions, make this place a very valuable and enriching experience.

We had the pleasure of visiting the place with Akash, with whom we managed to create an open and curious conversation about life in general, using Google Translate. Akash is a music professional, dedicated to the world of transport, who after driving a rickshaw for five years, now has his own car. With him we made several trips and enjoyed the local delicacies, making our exploration experience much more nutritious. On the second day travelling together, he surprised us with parathas made by his wife for our breakfast. They were delicious; we had breakfast and fed ourselves with the love expressed through them for two days.

 

Around Pune there are archaological remains of several fortresses, so we put our energy into two: Sinhagad and Lohgad. The Sinhagad fortress was built in the 17th century and has been an important place of defence throughout history, until the independence of India. Its sturdy walls and imposing doors are the prelude to wonderful views and the best setting to try kulfi, a homemade milk and sugar ice cream in stainless steel cones, covered by hand and sealed with a piece of bicycle tire rubber. When you ask for it, the lid is removed and a small pressurised bamboo stick is inserted. This man sells 900 ice creams daily that he prepares every night and preserves in a mixture of ice and salt.

We saw the fortress of Lohgad from the Buddhist caves of Bhaja. In the distance, the end of the fortification gives an idea of its size. We arrived early, before the food stalls opened and before the arrival of the monkeys, and we began the ascent of the 500 steps to the top. The fortress is located on the edge of the Sahyadri mountain range; it is built on four levels, connected by four entrance arches reinforced with defensive capabilities. At the back, an elongated fortified shape that resembles the tail of a scorpion complements its structure. At the top, 16 water reservoirs, stables and temples enrich the infrastructure. The view from the top is impressive because of its spaciousness and the smog that prevents you from enjoying it in its entirety.

To the west of the city, we visited Lonavala, a key mountain resort for the inhabitants of Mumbai. On the way to this destination, we explored three temples from different eras. The first of them was the Birla Ganpati Temple, where an impressive sculpture of Lord Ganesh, sculpted in marble, stands. This place, serene and peaceful, invites silence and contemplation.

 

We continued our journey to the Karla and Bhaja caves. The Karla caves, built between the 2nd and 4th centuries CE, are adorned with beautiful sculptures. On the other hand, the Bhaja caves, dating from the second century, house an extensive collection of stupas and 22 caves, highlighting the majesty of their architecture with vaulted ceilings.

During our stay, we stayed in a nature reserve north of the city, where we got lost in silence for two days. For the first time, we found ourselves away from the beeps, screeches, and hubbub of urban life. We were accompanied only by the chants of the temples near sunset and dawn, and the soft murmur of the leaves of the trees, caressed by the wind, which woke us up every morning, sweetly, like a loving murmur.

Alan y Marce

Ellora y Ajanta Caves

 We left early to get to Chhatrapati Shivaji Nagar, formerly known as Aurangabad. We arrived just when the most important festival in the city was being held, and the streets were dedicated to the festival, which included the places we planned to visit.

We went to the caves of Aurangabad and found a sea of beautifully dressed people visiting the place. In historical terms, these Buddhist caves date back to the sixth century CE and have characteristics similar to those we visited in Nashik.

After moving with determination through the bustling group at the box office, we began our climb. Soon the photo requests and the questions of: "What country do you come from?" began. Finally, we arrived at the level of the caves and really what we did was a photo shoot, of which Marce took advantage to record the faces of the place. She tried to get into one of the largest caves, but couldn't advance more than 2 metres because she was always surrounded by people who wanted to take pictures with her. So she decided to leave the place to meet Alan again, who was calling, but Ishe didn't find him because he was also surrounded by young people who surrounded him completely.

We decided to descend and, along the way, we were presented with another set of photographic experiences, protection and love with generosity.

Another surprise was Bibi Ka Maqbara, a mausoleum built in 1669 in honour of the emperor's wife, ordered by his son. It is an impressive building of Mughal architecture, known as the Taj Mahal of Deccan. Built in marble and sandstone, with Islamic and Persian decorative elements, it is dazzling and cosy.

Aurangabad is famous for the Himroo, a form of textile that dates back to the 14th century. It is characterised by the elaboration of high quality fabrics, usually made of a mixture of silk and wool or silk and cotton, with metallic threads that present complex floral and geometric designs. This artisan process involves the use of manual looms and is based on colours such as black, mustard, or pale slate, and intricate patterns, making the pieces highly attractive.

 

The visit to the Ellora caves took us a whole day and we did not manage to visit all the caves. The Ellora Caves are an impressive complex of rock-dug temples and monasteries, dating between the 5th and 13th centuries. This heritage site, recognised by UNESCO, houses structures of three religions: Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism, reflecting the tolerance and coexistence of these traditions in ancient India.

 

The caves extend over approximately 2 kilometres and have a total of 34 caves, the most prominent being Cave 16, known as the Temple of Kailash. This temple, built between the 7th and 8th centuries under the reign of the Rashtrakuta dynasty, is dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and represents the sacred Kailash mountain.

The structure of the temple was carved from a single rock, from top to bottom, rather than being built with stone blocks. With a height of approximately 30 metres, the temple has an elaborate facade adorned with intricate sculptures representing deities, dances and mythological scenes. Among the most impressive representations are the Nataraja (Shiva dancing) and other figures that evoke the rich Hindu mythology.

 

In a beautiful mountainous setting next to the Waghora River, are the Ajanta caves, famous for their exceptional Buddhist art. The Ajanta complex comprises 30 caves, many of which are adorned with intricate sculptures, reliefs and frescos that represent the life of Buddha, stories of jataka (previous lives of Buddha) and various Buddhist representations.

The caves are mainly organised into two groups: the monastic (viharas) and the cult (chaityas). Viharas served as residences for monks, while chaityas are prayer temples that usually contain stupas, structures that house Buddhist relics.

 

The beauty of the place, the aesthetic richness of the caves, the presence of monks who visit, pray and meditate, and the warmth of the people we met, placed this experience in a special place of our consciousness.

Upon arriving at the hotel, we met the guys at the reception playing carom. This is a popular board game originally from India, which is played on a square board made of wood, with a design that includes a group of holes in each corner. With a style similar to billiards, the goal of the game is to slide the chips (discs) into the holes using a "striker" (a larger disc). Players must hit 

the tiles with precision and strategy, trying to hit their own while avoiding the opponent's.

 

The game can be played by two to four players, organised in teams, and generally uses a set of nine tiles of each colour (white and black), plus a queen's tile that grants additional points. The game is won by being the first player or team to fetch all his chips, but the queen must also be considered, who must be ambushed before the end of the game.

An enriching experience in every sense, so much so that learning and discovering that time goes between our hands trying to answer our questions at some level.

Alan & Marce 

Nashik

 Days before our arrival in Nashik we did not remember the reason for our choice; looking for our notes, we found the wine. 80% of Indian wine is produced in Nashik, and 80% of the region's wine is produced in Sula.

Sula is a young vineyard, with only 22 years of history, that seeks to transform the awareness and experience of wine in Indian society. It produces two million bottles a year, mainly of the Chenin blanc, Zinfandel, Sauvignon blanc and Shiraz strains. Their wine is organic and technology is being used to reduce the intense water consumption that production demands.

 

Its wineries are an excellent example of a business model, focussing mainly on the population of India. They offer tours, tastings, accommodation, food, fun and concerts, positioning the winery as one with the most people doing wine tastings in the world, which is not surprising, given that the country has the largest population in the world. We did the tour and the tasting; the first was in a group of more than 60 people. We had never attended such a busy tour; as you can imagine, it was very difficult to listen to the guide, especially in the most enclosed places, because with 60 people of all ages and an unbridled passion for taking selfies, the range of sounds is immense. For the tasting we were only half, and this was executed with high levels of efficiency: a single glass. First we tried a sparkling wine, followed by white and pink, then we rinsed the glass and mouth to continue with two red wines and a sweet, in a record time of 20 minutes. It was a unique experience in every way.

 

But Nashik is not just wine; it has a rich history and is an important pilgrimage centre in Hinduism. Our first afternoon and night we dedicated to walking through the oldest area of the city, on the other side of the river, with the company of Anwar, a neighbour of our lodging who offered to show us the area, which turned out to be a very special experience. Panchavati Ghat, located on the banks of the Godavari River, is known for its scenic beauty and serene atmosphere. It is a popular destination for devotees, who visit its temples and participate in rituals and religious ceremonies. At the time of our visit, Kumbh Mela was being held, an event that brings together pilgrims who gather to immerse themselves in the sacred rivers, believing that this purifies the soul and frees them from sins. The feast marks the assumption of the astral position that is believed to have brought the nectar of immortality after a battle between the gods and demons. There, on the banks of the river channels, we observed the chants, the prayers, the lights, the fire and the devotees.

We walked through the streets and temples until we reached the cave where Rama, Sita, and Lakshmi were believed to have lived for 14 years in their exile, a busy pilgrimage site. In the streets, small stalls, many altars and shops of all kinds satisfy curiosity. We ended the day by visiting an extensive new temple, with beautiful hand-made carvings in Rajasthan and of admirable architectural complexity.

 

Another fundamental element of the visit to Nashik is the Misal Pav. Our neighbour on the train had informed us of its existence and had indicated the right place to try it. This dish, a favourite for breakfast or brunch in the area, has a spicy and rich flavour that makes it irresistible. Street stories tell that there has been a competition between Mumbai, Pune, and Nashik to see who has the best Misal, and the inhabitants of the area are proud of the unique way of preparing this dish in their region. The Misal is a curry with sprouted moong beans, onion, lemon and different dry cereals; it is eaten with traditional round bread from Maharashtra. In Pune, they add chopped tomato and it's a little more oily; we didn't try the one in Mumbai. So, following the myth, Nashik's is the winner.

To the west of Nashik is the Trimbakeshwar Jyotirling Temple, one of the twelve sacred jyotirlings dedicated to Lord Shiva, and is famous for its impressive architecture. This temple, dated in the 18th century, is an important place of pilgrimage and worship, famous for its exquisite sculpture and the reverent atmosphere that surrounds it. Inside is the deity of Trimbak, represented with three lingas, symbolising the three main deities: Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva. The temple is also known for its connection with the Godavari River, which is considered sacred and flows nearby.

We walked around the place, among devoted people, enjoying the beautiful images of the environment. When we finally managed to obtain the tickets, we went to the entrance of the temple. A two-hour line awaited us to be able to approach the ceremonial place; water, flowers, food and all kinds of offerings accompanied the families on the line, along with music and movies on the cell phones. Suddenly, the songs began, the people got up from the ground and raised their hands to the sky, and on the television screens the transmission began; there was the Linga.

Linga in Elephanta Caves

The linga is considered an abstract form of Shiva and is an emblem of the creative energy and power of the universe, creation and regeneration. The linga is placed on a pedestal called "yoni", which represents the goddess Shakti or the feminine principle. Together, the linga and the yoni symbolise the complementarity of male and female energies, fundamental for balance in the universe.

Finally, before leaving, we explored the caves of Pandar Devi. The atmosphere was cool and only a few people were there, taking exercise; the monkeys were far away and even the food vendors had not opened their stalls. Unlike the days in the city, there was silence and, despite the drought that reigns at this time of year, some birds shared their songs and flight. We reached the top and we found a surprising collection of enclosures carved into the rock: Buddhist temples and monasteries with beautiful carvings and decoration and dating from the first century BCE, a sample of what would await us in our next destination.

 

Alan & Marce