The Kingdom of Mysore: The Last Station. / El reino Mysore: la última estación

 The history of Mysore begins in the 14th century CE, when it was established by King Hoysala, and the city became an important commercial and cultural centre. However, it was in the 16th century that Mysore gained prominence under the rule of the Wodeyar dynasty. This period was fundamental for the development of architecture and the arts, seeing the construction of magnificent palaces, temples, and gardens.

In the 18th century, the city was invaded by British forces, which led to a series of wars and conflicts. Despite finally being defeated in the fourth war, and under British rule, the Wodeyars maintained Mysore as a British protectorate, with some autonomy in internal affairs of the kingdom. Finally, around 1956, it was integrated into the state of Karnataka.

 

The palaces of Mysore are one of its great attractions; constructions of impressive sizes, with massive ceramic components from the south, halls with columns and arches, stone carvings, and outstanding woodwork. Its galleries, full of murals, tell the stories of the place and are testimony to the ways of life of the time, both in everyday life and in defence and war efforts.

Mysore also invites you to explore its most artisanal manifestations; four practices are accessible: incense, essential oils, bamboo basketry, and the famous Mysore silk.

Incense and oils are associated with cultivation of sandalwood, and are the most famous and important of the products marketed. However, with the development of the practice, various trees and shrubs provide the world with the beauty of their essences. We enjoyed a session of aromas and laughter, between the oils and the good humour of the owner of the place. With what's left of the sandalwood after the carving of figures and beads for mala and bracelets, the incense is prepared. On our visit to a temple, we watched a woman creating a thick and beautiful incense stick that she uses to avoid flies; this is the matrix mass that allows the sandalwood powder to agglomerate. We had the opportunity to learn from an expert woman, and as always, mastery makes the task seemingly simple. The mixture of movements that must be made with each hand was a surprise: while the right moves from front to back rolling the mixture, the left produces a rotation of the axis of the bamboo stick at a different speed, which results in a surprising brain short circuit. Fascinating.

On the outskirts of Mysore, we were able to visit Ram, an expert craftsman in bamboo basketry. When we finally managed to explain our intentions with the visit, he began his explanation with the selection of the material to make a basket. Since we do not share the same language, Google Translate was indispensable and Ram enjoyed being able to speak and that Marce could understand him. Ram has been crafting since he was seven years old and learned from his mother; he is very proud to have raised and educated his son in his trade as a basket-weaver, despite not having a formal education.

In the basket he uses three thicknesses of fibre: one wider and flatter to create the matrix, one five millimetres wide for interweaving, and one thinner and narrower, of three millimetres, to make the braid of the edge. After the first laps, Marce asked him to let her do it and that generated a beautiful conversation of hands and intentions between them. In the next step, he took control and modelled for her, and then she followed in his footsteps. Control flowed from one hand to another without resistance, without permission, without fear, in the certainty of a shared intention. About us, several local people approached to observe and offer explanations, and Ram attended them generously, creating spaces for this delicious game, while the driver of the tuk-tuk made videos and helped with the translation when the place was too noisy to hear the digital voice of the phone. In the end, a beautiful basket was in Ram's hands and now it is in our home, offered to us as a gift from him.

The other exploration was Mysore silk, distinguished by its lightness - it is crepe silk, and a saree weighs 120 grams - as well as by its beautiful embroidery with gold threads. It was surprising to find a giant car museum that has been curated not only to present popular old vehicles, but to allow us to approach the relationship of the territory with different classes of transport and forms of use. Additionally, it has a section of artefacts that represent the traditions of the population through time.

 

Bengaluru was our last destination in this section of the trip. The train journey from Mysore provided us with a lot of information and awareness of the challenges of life in the information technology capital of India. Bengaluru is one of the cities with the fastest growth in recent years and has a clearly established agenda to position itself as a cosmopolitan destination for the world. Although it is known for its heavy traffic, it turned out to be a city that allowed us to walk; we found pavements, parks, and destinations to explore on our own. The botanical garden has a huge collection of trees and gardens, which is a pleasure for curiosity.

Several art galleries allowed us to delight in the creations on display, and the documentary centre gave us the opportunity to discover Nicholas Roerich, a prominent Russian painter, writer, and philosopher of the 19th century, known for his deep connection with spirituality and his love for nature. His work covers a wide range of themes, from majestic landscapes of the Himalayan mountains to representations of mythology and traditions of various cultures. Roerich was a fervent defender of peace and culture, promoting the idea that art can be a vehicle for union between peoples. In addition, we connected with the valuable practice of local libraries, which opened for us another dimension of reality.

This was the last station of this segment of the trip in India, our visa was ending and it was necessary to leave to apply for the next one and return later in the year. However, leaving India was not easy. The cancellation of flights, extreme security inspections, the confiscation of our GPS, hours separated by administrative and security procedures, missing flights, and a stay in a hotel of limited reputation add to the memories of a time in India full of wonders, reflection, self-awareness, and gratitude for the generosity we find in the smile of each person, in the richness of culture, in the complexity of history, and in the paradoxes of life which, although challenging, provide fresh air to oxygenate us and provide favourable winds for continuing our journey.

Alan y Marce

The Western Ghats in Karnataka / Los Ghats Occidentales en Karnataka

 

We began this route to Jog Falls, an impressive waterfall that allowed us to understand the power of this mountain range in Western India. On the way we could see how the mountains reach the sea, creating a beautiful coast, full of more closed beaches that look better preserved in their natural charm.

On the recommendation of our driver, we stopped at the fortress of Minjar, built in the 16th century CE and protected by the empire of Vijayanagara. It is the first time that history refers us to a Queen, Queen Chennabhairadevi, who was the regent of the kingdom for 54 years, defending it from the Mughals and after winning the war with the Portuguese she was able to create commercial alliances for the sale of pepper, ginger, sandalwood, cinnamon, and nutmeg and thus sustain its autonomy. The palace was protected by the fortress and although today it is possible to appreciate only the foundations, there is evidence of places for water storage and management. The construction is impressive, its deep and rounded walls and the surrounding landscape make this place a stimulating space for the imagination.

When we arrived at Jog Falls, the light was perfect, so we decided to visit the place immediately. People had told us that there was no water at the falls, or very little, and that would mean that it would not be worth the visit, but our experience was the opposite. Compared to the potential volumes of this waterfall, the water available was limited, however we could observe the four falls that make up this complex. The beauty of the visit lay in the possibility of observing the rock wall and its details, as well as appreciating the water routes, which is never possible during the monsoon, when the volume of water, as well as the spray, limit visibility.

This waterfall in the Saravathi River is the most important vertical fall in India at 253m high and is made up of four drop points. With a local guide we explored all the points and gained access to places not open to the public, being able to enjoy unique views.

The next day we dedicated to the quiet exploration of the rural world in this area: coconut crops, birds, red earth, and smiles accompanied every step. To the south we explored the Bhadra Tiger Reserve, a wildlife sanctuary which covers an area of approximately 492 square kilometres and is part of the ecological corridor created for the protection of the Bengal tiger. Its ecosystem of deciduous humid forests and a mountainous landscape creates an appropriate space for a diversity of mammals, birds, and reptiles. It is also home to a rich diversity of plants.

We did several "safaris" by water and by land, and despite not being able to spot tigers, we enjoyed the spacious forest, the generous sighting of Gaur, Sambar, elephant, and deer, as well as birds, highlighting the beautiful hornbills.

We continued south to Coorg, a mountain resort known for tea and coffee plantations and natural wealth. Along the way we enjoyed a traditional soup from the area called Kaal; green and full of flavour it's cooked for several hours and it is goat leg soup. it was a delight and evoked Marce's dad who would undoubtedly enjoy it. The coffee plantations were quite a surprise, we arrived at the end of the afternoon so we could not appreciate the plantations. The next day with the first hours of the day and waiting for a symphony of birds we went out to explore. The atmosphere was silent and around we only found immense extensions of wood, especially Silky Oak, a beautiful tree that grows straight, with a trunk with pink tones and leaves that generate a bright appearance when they move.

We enjoyed the environment, looking to the horizon for coffee plantations; after a while we realised that among the trees there were some bushes, as well as plants covering the bases of the trees up to half their height and everything was revealed. Silky Oak plantations provide the shade for coffee plants, and also serve as a support for pepper. There are three crops in one: coffee, pepper and wood. We walked the plantation, tasted the pepper, and delighted in the images of the peacocks, in the aroma of coffee.

As had often happened on this trip, we found another World Heritage Site: Halebeedu. Formerly, it was the capital of the Hoysala kingdom during the 12th and 13th centuries CE; it was one of the most prosperous cities of the Hoysala empire, which stood out for its innovation in architecture and sculpture. During its heyday, the city was a centre of art, religion, and commerce, and became an important destination for pilgrims and travellers. However, its prosperity was truncated by the invasions of the sultans of Delhi in the 14th century.

 

The temples are adorned with intricate carvings which present mythological stories, heavenly figures, and scenes of daily life. The sculptures made in steatite were carved with a high attention to detail, with a meticulousness and artistic dexterity that reveal the skill of the artisans of the time. Unlike the typical rectangular plan, the Hoysala temples have star shapes, which adds dynamism to the structure and allows better lighting inside.

Alan y Marce

Goa, a collection of delicacies / Goa, una colección de delicias

 We travelled to Goa in a taxi; by train, the trip lasts 11 hours, while by car it only lasted 6. As we moved to the west, the mud tile roofs began to appear until they dominated the architectural style of the area. After almost 5 hours, we approach the Western Ghats, a mountain range which runs through India from south to north and establishes one of the limits of the plateau that characterises the most central terrain.

The Western Ghats trap the water carried by the winds from the Arabian Sea, creating a thick and dense jungle, as well as a particular ecosystem that houses endemic species of the area and unique in the world. As we approach, we begin to observe patches of dense forest and the road begins a steep descent towards the sea. The view is beautiful, but there is not a single viewpoint that allows us to record it.

Although we knew that Goa is a state, we both expected to reach a city. That was our first discovery: the populations in Goa are relatively small and very green, which gives the feeling of small connected villages. Panaji and Vasco da Gama are the largest cities, but still their configuration and topography reinforce this sense, as much as the sighting of porcupines right on our first outing, looking for something refreshing.

We stayed in a hostel in Old Goa, the second capital of Goa, which was abandoned owing to major epidemics of cholera and plague in the 19th century. Old Goa today houses the largest collection of temples of Portuguese heritage, which constitute the UNESCO World Heritage architectural complex. Most temples are not active, but it is possible to appreciate their buildings. Two of them remain active: the Cathedral of Sé, impressive for its size, and the Basílica do Bom Jesus, which stands out for being the only temple whose brick is exposed. Around the temples, the vegetation creates a perfect contrast with these almost impeccable white constructions. The local stone, laterite, of dark and reddish tones, porous and hard, complements the uniqueness of the landscape.

 

In addition to the temples, the Portuguese heritage is appreciated in the houses: houses with central courtyards, colourful facades, large wrought iron balconies, windows with shells, terracotta ceilings and decorative tiles are its fundamental qualities and create a unique and very attractive landscape in which to get lost between one alley and another. In the first capital of Goa, Chandor, some of the most important mansions built in the 18th century are preserved, by families from generation to generation. When visiting them, it is possible to see the active fusion of European and Indian styles through their objects, furniture, as well as in the stories and stories of their owners.

 

Another of the singularities of Goa is its music. When we arrived in Goa, the Music on the Mount festival was taking place, an event that seeks to deepen the ties between India and Portugal through music. It was three days of concerts with different artists from both countries, and we were able to attend the closing concert. Just an hour before sunset, we appreciated the beautiful presentation of the Manganiyars musicians, from the Thar desert of Rajasthan. With their antique instruments, colourful turbans and relaxed posture sitting on the floor, they create a music that in their voices is life itself. After an hour, and after enjoying the colour changes of the sky with the sunset, the concert of Cuca Roseta, a Portuguese singer of Fado, began. With a beautiful voice, sang Fado and also traditional songs in Konkani, so her musicians were made up of Portuguese guitars and Goan strings. It was quite a spectacle and an absolute pleasure to enjoy this concert. We also enjoyed a night of Jazz in one of Panaji's bars, with delicious food and an introduction to Feni, a delicious cashew distillate. We couldn't enjoy a Goa Trance party, so it's pending for next time.

In Goa, we enjoyed fresh fish and seafood, making our meetings with the table delicious and refreshing moments. Finally, after many suggestions, we tried the fish curry, a dish that is at the centre of the food of families and that is fundamental in the culinary scene. For our taste, the sauce hid the mild flavour of the fish; however, its flavour is rich and vibrant.

 

Goa is famous for its beaches, which extend throughout the state. The northern beaches are vibrant, full of people and other beings, and are preferred by the locals. Its waters are strong, and the presence of rescuers is impressive, with towers every 10 metres and jeeps to monitor the area. The southern beaches, dedicated to tourism, have a high availability of services; they are spacious, clean, smaller in length and their waters are calmer. Around the beaches, the bazaars are quite a spectacle: shops of all sizes, colours and shapes are available, and the incessant offer of items and services can be overwhelming.

 

Art is another of the pleasures of Goa. Museums with stimulating exhibitions, risky collections and pleasant spaces welcomed us to increase our awareness and feed the soul. A Royal Enfield-themed café presented us with an extensive collection of this brand's motorcycles, difficult to get in other latitudes.

 

To close our trip, we made an expedition to spot birds in the Western Ghats, with one of the most knowledgeable ornithology experts of the place. We started very early and were able to enjoy the delight of the sunrise in the most rural areas. We saw a great diversity of birds, and among them was one of the jewels of the place: a small colourful kingfisher, Black-backed Dwarf  Kingfisher, the size of a fist, which survives thanks to its ability to hide in the dense thickets near the ravines. This experience was a great entrance to the exploration of the fauna of the place that would continue in the following week of the trip.

Alan y Marce

Hampi and the traces of the Vijayanagara empire / las huellas del impero Vijayanagara

After two hours of waiting at the train station, distracted with the monkeys looking for food, the dogs waiting for a bite to start the day, people coming out of their cloth covers after waking up, and adults and children passing from one platform to another, jumping on the train rails, we began our journey to Hampi. Just half an hour before arriving at our destination, we observed a change in the landscape; banana, coconut, and rice plantations predominated around us.

We arrived at our accommodation and, essentially, we sat down to talk under a mango tree. This was a great beginning; Naresh shared his stories about the place and the recent events of his life, while the birds jumped from one tree to another, the dogs dozed at his feet between one caress and the next, and the leaves of the trees whispered with the passage of the wind, with that softness of the subtle.

 

After a light bite of rice and dal, which was comforting, we went to look for a place to see the sunset. Naresh had announced us an unforgettable place. We arrived at the Shri Achyutaraaya Swamy temple 20 minutes before sunset. The warm light awakened the grey, reddish, and ochre colours of the rocks; the songs of the monks in the temple created a unique and welcoming atmosphere, enough to consider it unforgettable. We passed by the side of the temple and began to ascend the mountain among fragments of barely preserved archaeological remains. We crossed the ground floor of the last ruined temple and ascended to its roof, where the immensity was revealed. A 360-degree view of granite rocks, cultivated valleys, terraces with rice crops and coconut palms, rivers and canals, interrupted only by the archaological remains of a kingdom that left a mark. We never expected this landscape, a unique and picturesque beauty that occupied our entire existence. There, in the silence and stillness, we sit down to enjoy the sunset on the pieces of stone carved and used by a people 17 centuries ago.

Hampi was the capital of the Vijayanagara Empire between the 14th and 16th centuries CE. It covers more than 25 square kilometres of scattered ruins which include temples, palaces, markets, and residences, perfectly articulated with the surrounding environment. It is an example of planned urbanisation of an imperial capital and the recognition of its role as a key city on the Silk Road.

 

The structures have a unique character; the carved stone and the sound columns characterize these spaces. In its time, the great hall of the Vijaya Vithala temple was a structure formed by 56 sound pillars of granite - lithophones - that, when touched with sandalwood sticks or by hand, produced the music that accompanied the ceremonies and celebrations. Today it is possible to appreciate at least six different forms of music produced with this instrument. 

 

On the other hand, it is necessary to highlight the richness of the stone carving, rich in its detail, in its expressive capacity and in the contents that, in addition to evoking religious elements, exalt those of everyday life, nature, and the commercial practices of the time. The temples have places of worship, but also with spaces for fun, socialisation and commerce, and it is possible to appreciate evidence of all these structures in the different components of the architectural complex.

 

In the centre of the city, the Virupaksha temple is an active worship centre, with a highly decorated 9-level tower that constitutes its gateway. Its position, at the end of the historical bazaar and in the middle of the active life of Hampi, makes it an unmissable reference point.

 

This is a dry region; the rains occur in August and are intermittent. Over time, dams and canals have been built to ensure the water supply to its inhabitants, as well as the sustainability of crops. With water and plantations, birds find a safe space, and with birds, we find immense joy. We explored the Ankasamudra bird sanctuary and arrived just when the sun was starting to heat up. The activity was intense: the birdsongs filled all the senses and moved in abundant groups. When we climbed up to the observation tower, the view was breathtaking; the trees and shrubs play their role as places of nesting, courting, and reproduction. The flooded areas receive abundant waterfowl, and on the edges, the birds of the swamps walk between the plants and their prey in that continuous exercise of feeding. Ragú, our guide, helped us observe the diversity of species and then guided us through the route through the savannah birds. His calm presence, along with his sharp and experienced eye, allowed us to enjoy that different world of birds in which we found ourselves.

For the first time on this trip, we were able to enjoy the fire. Our outdoor dinners, sitting on small chairs enjoying a homemade, simple and delicious meal, were accompanied by rich conversations with Raju about local life and his personal history.

Hampi also allowed us to get closer to rural life. The predominant crops of rice, banana, coconut, cane, and mango served as a backdrop for the red-horned water buffaloes and the black sheep that occupy the place. The men walked with their flocks, dressed in their white "panches" of cotton or silk, while the women, between colours and sweat, carried the rest. 

 Alan y Marce